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Routes in South Formation

Arch Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cross Stitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreaming in Color T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ELO T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach Headwall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hibernation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lima Bean T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Payback S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stonebridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FFA Dan Levison 2005, equipped in 1994
Page Views: 675 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dan Levison on Apr 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Granite Beach Headwall (aka Granite Beach P2) is the exposed, hanging headwall on the southwest face. To get there, ascend the high-quality first pitch of GB (12a), or rap in from the top to the hanging belay (triple-bolt anchor). Pull the small hang via powerful underclings. The unrepeated, airy face above is comprised of several thin, sustained face-climbing cruxes incorporating insecure micro-crimping on perfect granite. There is a relentless crux between bolts 3 and 4, and also just right of bolt 4, where you traverse hard right and power onto a sloping ramp. Move up the ramp for several feet, and ascend the face/crack system (11a/b - 3 bolts). The left-rising crack eventually leads to a small roof (fixed wire and pin) and then the anchor. Warning: this is an 80 foot pitch; a 60 meter rope is essential if you plan on lowering, or rapping back to the hanging belay.

Protection

7 bolts, 1 pin, 2 fixed wires, triple bolt anchor; 80 feet

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