Type: Trad, Alpine, 3600 ft (1091 m), Grade IV
FA: Josh Briggs & Rob Owens Aug. 2001
Page Views: 392 total · 21/month
Shared By: J J on Oct 27, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Hiking Party Size Restrictions may be in effect. Details

Description

The NE buttress of Mt. Temple, being the "easiest" route on the North Face.  Anywhere from 6 to 10 roped pitches will get you up the buttress to the turn south to intersect the upper 1/3 of the East Ridge route, with lots of scrambling above and below the roped pitches.

The route description in the Jones 2015 guide is a good reference, but also hard to follow at times. Just have some good mountain scene, follow your nose and stick to the cleanest rock at or below 5.8 climbing and you will get up the route, and back to the car hopefully before dark!

From the top of the buttress, follow the ledge systems left (south) either on snow (conditions dependent) or loose scree to the top of the East Ridge, but below the Black Towers.  I recommend the continued traverse up left and into the black towers for 6? more roped pitches (bolted belays to keep you on route, very civilized) of low to mid 5th class climbing to the top of the ridge and onto the summit ice cap.  

From the top of the Black Towers it is about another hour walk to the summit, then descend the SW Ridge back to Sentinel Pass, then drop back down into Paradise Valley (north) and follow the posted signs at each trail intersection back to the Trailhead.  Expect a full day out. 

Location

Located between the Sphinx face and the Aemmer Couloir, this route follows more or less the Northeast ridge of the mountain.  From your car at the Paradise valley TH, hike up the trail into Paradise valley and around Lake Annette. From lake Annette, pass the start of the Greenwood-Jones, and the Sphinx Face.  There may be/probably is water available at the base of the GJ for one last fill up. Continue hiking up death scree to almost the col at the base of the Aemmer Couloir, then start trending uphill on dirty ledges and into an obvious gully that slants up and right.  Scramble up the gully and then onto a large scree ledge, then turn left and walk towards the start of the roped climbing.  The route/roped pitches more or less starts here and wander up and left, then up and right, then up and left for 6 or so more pitches.  

Protection

No Bolts! Single rack to a #3 or so, 1/2 set of wires, no pins needed. Plus crampons/tool for the summit ice cap.

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