Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Aid, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft (1364 m), 20 pitches|
|FA:||Brian Greenwood, Charlie Locke, July 1966|
|Page Views:||9,124 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 28, 2010 · Updates|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
Topo of the Greenwood-Locke.
If not roped up yet, now is the time. Locate a massive chimney/gully that is often running with water on warm days. As Dr. Hemlock might say, "Looks like we have some wet work ahead of us". (Depending on where you gained the upper snowfield, you may need to downclimb around a buttress to the right a ways to locate this chimney.) Work up a steep section of relatively solid rock to reach tiered slabs of dark gray stone. Move up and generally right (as needed to find dry rock), then back left along these slabs to reach the prominent (often snow-covered) sloping ledge that runs across the entire face.
Traverse the chossy ledge for ~ 200 feet to reach the base of a prominent pillar. This pillar can be easily spotted from the highway when the light is right. Ascend the right side of the pillar on generally improving rock. Follow your nose along this rib for several pitches, veering from side to side as conditions dictate. The climbing is generally in the 5.6 range, with many ledges & short dihedrals. As the wall steepens, move to the left side of the pillar, and climb a long, difficult slab to regain the prow at an exposed ledge. The crux pitch follows, beginning with a short traverse right, then entering a steep corner, ultimately gaining the top of the rib. Fun climbing along a brief ridge of bulbous towers, passing a good bivy site, leads to the final headwall.
The "Ice Hose" pitch climbs a steep, left-facing corner of solid limestone in dry conditions, but is often wet or icy. The next pitch continues up a shallow corner to reach a good ledge. One or two more pitches of steep chimneys & cracks through shattered rock arrive at a broad loose ledge, nearing the looming headwall. Traverse this ledge, then move up another 30 feet or so to the highest ledge, Temple's own "Thank God Ledge", providing escape from what is clearly an impregnable headwall. There is a catch, and that is the gaping, choss-filled gully that has eroded its way straight through this ledge. Traverse the ledge straight right, down climb to the bottom of the chossy gully, cross to the other side, and climb up teetering dinner plates with no pro to the continuation of the ledge. From here it may be possible to simply continue traversing right along the ledge system. Otherwise, climb straight up from the highest part of the left side of the ledge, on relatively solid, slabby rock.