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Early Access
Routes in The Arsenal
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Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bobby Brown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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De Dang, Dang Diggy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doctor Epic (Doktor Epik?) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fool’s Gold S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Matador Pants S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Neutronix S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rendezspew S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 39.70756, -107.69464 |
| FA: | Sam Elais |
| Page Views: | 2,078 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Sep 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Fool’s Gold is a classic extension to Smarmacus Maximus. It climbs an OK 5.12 to a beautiful and hard panel of immaculate blue and gold stone high off the deck. From the chains of Smarmacus, continue up easily for a few bolts to a stance under a small roof. Prepare for battle, and continue into the crux sequence, a brilliant few moves on some of the smallest, coolest holds in Rifle. A good rail leads into a quick shake before the redpoint crux, a cryptic, techy traverse through poor sidepulls and underclings. Slowly the moves will let up in difficulty, but this thing isn’t over until you are standing no-hands on the final slab (I can say from experience). Clip the chains and claim a proud, rarely repeated gem.
This route is an incredible change of pace from other 5.14s nearby and should not be missed. Consider it mandatory to get on it if there are draws already on the extension.
Location
Locate this route by finding the impressive 40 foot panel of streaked stone above Smarmacus Maximus on the right side of Arsenal.
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