Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 192 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is the route directly left of The Polly-Nator. Make powerful moves off of underclings to gain the first bulge then finish on a juggy and pumpy headwall. Bring the guns.

Protection

Quickdraws, 12?

Photos

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D-Storm
  5.12c
D-Storm  
  5.12c
The fourth bolt, as you're starting into the roof, is a very cruxy clip and may be the crux itself. I found that a big right drop-knee made the difference. It takes a little extra patience on strenuous holds to get into the position, but it's worth it, because skipping the clip is not a good idea. Sep 12, 2015
handyhansen
Vail, CO
  5.12c
handyhansen   Vail, CO
  5.12c
I really enjoyed this route. Don't be dissuade by the hard/sketchy clip for the fall is fine as long as you have an attentive belayer. BETA: establish yourself in the underclings, make the committing right hand move to the rail, slam in a bomber right kneebar then clip at your waist. Makes for an interesting, unique and engaging route. After that, it's just tosses to glory jugs and one of the coolest holds in Rifle. Jun 27, 2018