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Routes in The Arsenal

Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bobby Brown S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doctor Epic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente de los Matador Pantalones S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rendezspew S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2008
Page Views: 1,110 total · 10/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Sep 25, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Das Fruit Machine is a nice addition to the Arsenal. In typical Arsenal fashion, the climbing is steep and thuggy, with big holds. At times, this route gets dangerously close to its neighbors, making it feel a bit like a squeeze job. Nevertheless, the route is fun, and once it gets dusted off, it will no doubt become a must do at Rifle.

To start, climb up a skirt of very chossy rock, and carefully clip the first bolt. Pull into a very shallow scoop, and power up to a horizontal break. Cut left and zigzag over a bulge. Grab a quick shake and then navigate through the redpoint crux using shitty pinches and helpful kneebars to another break. With one last bulge standing in the way of redpoint glory, muster all your reserves, and muckle past some small crimps to the anchors.

DFM is a fairly independent line with some good moves, friendly grips, and nice rock. As far as the Arsenal is concerned you could do much worse.

Location

One route to the right of Pretty Hate Machine.

Protection

Bolts, and a two bolt anchor. A 50 meter rope will get you back to the ground. You may want two kneepads for this route.

Photos

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D-Storm
  5.13a
D-Storm  
  5.13a
I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack. Aug 17, 2014

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