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Routes in The Arsenal

Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bobby Brown S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doctor Epic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente de los Matador Pantalones S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rendezspew S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Landin
Page Views: 9,316 total, 48/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 28, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Super-mega-ultra-classic! It is possibly the best sport route in the universe.

This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.

This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.

The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.

Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.

This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.

If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.

Protection

9 bolts with fixed chains.
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This March, PHM was rebolted (all protection bolts) with glue-in Wave Bolts, supported by the ASCA . Aluminum carabiner pulled and replaced with steel and a steel biner with chain added at first bolt. All of the quicklinks were replaced with new stainless quicklinks.

Here's the story and here's some pics, before and after. Enjoy. Jun 14, 2013
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Marc, that's one of the better excuses I've heard from people that are too scared to go to Rifle and get their ass kicked. Good one! Apr 17, 2008
Marc H
Denver
Marc H   Denver
I've never even been to Rifle, and I feel like I climbed the route by reading the description. No need to go now I guess. Nov 27, 2007
The second bolt looked pretty rusty to me, at least in limestone. Sep 11, 2007
For what it's worth, Dave Pegg's new "Western Sloper" guide also calls this route 12c. Sep 16, 2002