Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Bissel
Page Views: 2,328 total · 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

This line features a mellow line of nice jugs that terminates abruptly at a notorious boulder problem crux just below the lip of the cave. A great shake at the mid-height roof provides a complete recovery, making this line a perfect choice for power junkies.

Scramble up relatively solid choss to a ledge. Several great pockets lead up to a chalky undercling and an awkward stand-up move into a corner. Move up to the roof, then slightly left to clip and shake from an airy stance. Long reaches over the roof lead to a sloping rail and a (left) kneebar of dubious value. Stab up to a pair of small crimps, work the feet up on polished bumps, and gun for the horizontal break. The difficulties end at a nice jug-rest, and a few more moves on prickly stone lead to the anchor.

Location

This is on the far left end of the Arsenal, beyond the edge of the trees. This used to be the furthest left route, but now "The Lolonator" breaks left from this line at the mid-height roof.

Protection

~7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. You may want to skip the first bolt above the roof to limit rope drag (the next bolt can be clipped from the rest).

Photos

Evan Winn
  5.12b/c PG13
Evan Winn  
  5.12b/c PG13
The bolt under the big roof is scary to look at (rusty, sticks out of the rock), but the next one isn't far away and usual has an extended draw. Climbs more like 12c for me, but I just can't find the kneebar. Sep 16, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I fell maybe 8 feet on the rusty bolt and it held. Not a huge whip but at least it holds something. Jun 4, 2010
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
JJNS,

Have you been on Easy Skankin'?

The kneebar on that route is both excellent and it's actually comfortable....

And the route is just F$%^ing awesome to add to it, long, sustained 12b. Jul 25, 2011
JJNS  
Yeah, Easy Skankin' is amazing! Jul 27, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12b
Hey Lynn, thanks for your efforts on this climb. I've noticed a lot of routes with the old bolts still in the wall. I, for one, appreciate you taking the time to pull the old ones and clean up the wall a bit. Not an easy task and often a thankless one. Thank you.

As for the route, I thought this thing was pretty sweet! Really fun jug haulin' up a steep wall for about 35 feet to a fun boulder problem crux and some moderate moves from there to the chains. Oh, and no knee-bar necessary for the crux, there's a lot of options that will work up there. Cool route and one I would recommend, especially for those looking for a good .12-. May 7, 2012
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12b
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12b
There are two anchors on this climb, does this route stop at the first or second anchors? Sep 20, 2012
Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
7 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced on this route in the spring of 2012 with support from the ASCA.



safeclimbing.org/ Oct 17, 2012