Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | John Bissel |
Page Views: | 3,320 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 25, 2008 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This line features a mellow line of nice jugs that terminates abruptly at a notorious boulder problem crux just below the lip of the cave. A great shake at the mid-height roof provides a complete recovery, making this line a perfect choice for power junkies.
Scramble up relatively solid choss to a ledge. Several great pockets lead up to a chalky undercling and an awkward stand-up move into a corner. Move up to the roof, then slightly left to clip and shake from an airy stance. Long reaches over the roof lead to a sloping rail and a (left) kneebar of dubious value. Stab up to a pair of small crimps, work the feet up on polished bumps, and gun for the horizontal break. The difficulties end at a nice jug-rest, and a few more moves on prickly stone lead to the anchor.
Scramble up relatively solid choss to a ledge. Several great pockets lead up to a chalky undercling and an awkward stand-up move into a corner. Move up to the roof, then slightly left to clip and shake from an airy stance. Long reaches over the roof lead to a sloping rail and a (left) kneebar of dubious value. Stab up to a pair of small crimps, work the feet up on polished bumps, and gun for the horizontal break. The difficulties end at a nice jug-rest, and a few more moves on prickly stone lead to the anchor.
Location
This is on the far left end of the Arsenal, beyond the edge of the trees. This used to be the furthest left route, but now "The Lolonator" breaks left from this line at the mid-height roof.
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