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> Le Dôme
L'Initiation
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 3.6 from 31
votes
Routes in Le Dôme
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Air Voyageur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astral S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Au bouleau mon homme T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Chapiteau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crazy Carpet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Côté obscur S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dérobade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dôme Deluxe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frimousse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fun Noir S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gaston Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gruyère T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jeu de gear T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Can T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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L'Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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L'Onglée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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La Bibitte S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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La nébuleuse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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La vache folle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Le baiser de l'homme araignée T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le cormoran S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Le paradoxe des formes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nouvelle Vague T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Orage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passerelle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Patinoire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perdu dans l'espace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Point G T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snowmobile T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Soutien Gorge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Temps de cure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Variante d'Isabel 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zone Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Éclipse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | François-Xavier-Garneau, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 4,758 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Birk on Jul 8, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Description
This is the first route climbed in Grands-Jardins (1970). A long beautiful line with lots of fun and good rock. With the exception of the intial 5.6 pitch the rest of the route is 5.4 with good protection. Bolted anchors (with rap rings) are found all the way up to the very top. They seem to be set more specifically for rappelling and not always where you want your belay, so prepare to set your own trad anchor on some of the upper pitches.
This description follows the way we climbed it, using mostly bolted anchors and shorter pitches when not being able to see each others, which is pretty much each and every pitch. It can also get hard to hear each other at some of the pitches. Experienced climbers can easily stretch and combine pitches.
Pitch 1) At the base, surmount the overlap and work your way towards the bolt. Afterwards move right to flatter ground and a dihedral. Climb it (with interesting un-obvious moves) to bolted anchor.
Pitch 2) Traverse left till you see a bolt even further left. Ignore it. Climb towards a second bolt above and climb the right leaning ramp/crack till you are above the bolted anchor. Work you way up passing horizontal cracks till next bolted anchor.
Pitch 3) Go up through featured and pocketed terrain through an opening in the bushes. Pass a ledge with a tree with an old rappel sling/ring. Continue up on the left till bolted anchor.
Pitch 4) Up the slab through opening in bushes passing a bolted anchor to another one not much higher up.
Pitch 5) Straight up to the headwall and bolted anchor. You could also go diagonal left and go straight to a bolted anchor on the left side of the headwall, skipping the next traverse-pitch.
Pitch 6) Traverse left around 30m (100 feet or so) till you see a diagonal right ramp (more of a crack).
Pitch 7) Climb the ramp/crack up/right and over the headwall. You will see some webbing around a rock to the left (presumably a rap station). Continue to small overhanging headwall with a weakness. Build trad anchor just before. You could continue over the overhang to a bolted anchor not much after, but you will have hard time hearing your second.
Pitch 8) Surmount the overhang with a perfect left handhold, pass a bolted anchor and continue to the next headwall with a slopy left ramp and a more distinctive right ramp. Build trad anchor at base (big gear).
Pitch 9) Go up the right wide ramp with a nice crack on the left. Then continue up to a small ledge among the pocketed wall and horizontals where you can set a trad anchor. Again, if you prefer you can continue to a bolted anchor a little higher, but doing so will be harder to communicate with your second.
Pitch 10) Climb the very pocketed wall and small overlap to the top of the cliff and bolted anchor. This is the top of the climb where you can enjoy your lunch and excellent views! Don't try bushwack to the actual summit. Though it looks like there is not much to it, it's a loooong heinous way.
This description follows the way we climbed it, using mostly bolted anchors and shorter pitches when not being able to see each others, which is pretty much each and every pitch. It can also get hard to hear each other at some of the pitches. Experienced climbers can easily stretch and combine pitches.
Pitch 1) At the base, surmount the overlap and work your way towards the bolt. Afterwards move right to flatter ground and a dihedral. Climb it (with interesting un-obvious moves) to bolted anchor.
Pitch 2) Traverse left till you see a bolt even further left. Ignore it. Climb towards a second bolt above and climb the right leaning ramp/crack till you are above the bolted anchor. Work you way up passing horizontal cracks till next bolted anchor.
Pitch 3) Go up through featured and pocketed terrain through an opening in the bushes. Pass a ledge with a tree with an old rappel sling/ring. Continue up on the left till bolted anchor.
Pitch 4) Up the slab through opening in bushes passing a bolted anchor to another one not much higher up.
Pitch 5) Straight up to the headwall and bolted anchor. You could also go diagonal left and go straight to a bolted anchor on the left side of the headwall, skipping the next traverse-pitch.
Pitch 6) Traverse left around 30m (100 feet or so) till you see a diagonal right ramp (more of a crack).
Pitch 7) Climb the ramp/crack up/right and over the headwall. You will see some webbing around a rock to the left (presumably a rap station). Continue to small overhanging headwall with a weakness. Build trad anchor just before. You could continue over the overhang to a bolted anchor not much after, but you will have hard time hearing your second.
Pitch 8) Surmount the overhang with a perfect left handhold, pass a bolted anchor and continue to the next headwall with a slopy left ramp and a more distinctive right ramp. Build trad anchor at base (big gear).
Pitch 9) Go up the right wide ramp with a nice crack on the left. Then continue up to a small ledge among the pocketed wall and horizontals where you can set a trad anchor. Again, if you prefer you can continue to a bolted anchor a little higher, but doing so will be harder to communicate with your second.
Pitch 10) Climb the very pocketed wall and small overlap to the top of the cliff and bolted anchor. This is the top of the climb where you can enjoy your lunch and excellent views! Don't try bushwack to the actual summit. Though it looks like there is not much to it, it's a loooong heinous way.
Location
Park at the main parking lot for Le Dôme and walk north along the road for 300m (1000') till you see a wooden sign for L'Initiation. This is where the approach trail starts. It's a short 5-10 min hike with some elevation gain to the base. The 5.6 start is just to the left, stepping up an overlap and you will see clean rock with a high bolt.
Protection
Protection is generally very good with gear everywhere you need it. Lots of horizontal cracks everywhere. .4 and .5 BD cams (and pink/red tricams) are nice.
Descent
At the top veer left till you see a big cairn. That is the start of the descent trail. It's slighlty faded at some spots in the beginning but generally easy to follow. Just keep going left until it hits a big gully and it gets steeper. The footing can be a little treachearus at times, so be careful and take your time. Towards the end the trail merges into a brook and out on the main road. It comes out 100m or so (a few hundred feet) north of the approach trail.
You can also retreat and rappel at pretty much any point along the route. There are bolted rappel stations along the whole way. You "may" be able to rappel with a 60m rope the whole way down but don't take my word for it.
You can also retreat and rappel at pretty much any point along the route. There are bolted rappel stations along the whole way. You "may" be able to rappel with a 60m rope the whole way down but don't take my word for it.
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