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Routes in Le Dôme

Astral S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Onglée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jean Pierre Cadot & Pierre Desautel, September 1972
Page Views: 245 total · 4/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

Two 60+m ropes are a must.
P1
Climb straight up through the treed ledge
P2
Head straight up and follow the trees on the right until you find a vertical seam to a little bushy stance.
P3
Head straight up, aiming to the right side of the black headwall.
P4
Climb the ovelap on the right of the headwall and go diagonaly righ'ish to the rap station. (can be wet/dirty)

Squeezed in variation
P2
Traverse a bit left on the ledge and head up passed a small overlap, after about 45-55 meters, look for a nice cracks with decent feet below and left of some shrubs.
P3
Head straight up, a bit right of the Granuleuse and find the next belay in a diagonal crack rising towards the left, below the Granuleuse belay and nearly straight under the black head wall.
Head up to a cleft between the overhanging headwall.
P4
Attack the smaller vertical wall or bypass it from the left, and enjoy the mega textured black wall.
Continue Granuleuse's last pitch to the top.

Location

Just right of Granuleuse

Protection

Tricam and nut heaven, a lot of the cracks are heavily pocketed, you'll find chicken heads and other smaller pockets.
Anchors are on gear.

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