Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jean Pierre Cadot & Pierre Desautel, September 1972
Page Views: 287 total · 5/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route

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This route is not meant for the aspiring 5.7 climber, you will often be 20+ ft above your protection, if you find pro, use it because you may not find much higher up.

Two 60+m ropes are a must.
Climb straight up through the treed ledge
Head straight up and follow the trees on the right until you find a vertical seam to a little bushy stance at the top of the treed section (can be combined with P1).
Head straight up, aiming to the right side of the bushes (which may fall off the face) followed by a diagonal traverse to the left once you hit a much harder face, set an anchor at the end of the traverse or keep moving up to another good anchor 20m higher.
Climb the ovelap on the right of the headwall and go diagonaly righ'ish to the rap station. (can be wet/dirty)

Squeezed in variation
Traverse a bit left on the ledge and head up passed a small overlap, after about 45-55 meters, look for a nice cracks with decent feet below and left of some shrubs.
Head straight up, a bit right of the Granuleuse and find the next belay in a diagonal crack rising towards the left, below the Granuleuse belay and nearly straight under the black head wall.
Head up to a cleft between the overhanging headwall.
Attack the smaller vertical wall or bypass it from the left, and enjoy the mega textured black wall.
Continue Granuleuse's last pitch to the top.


Just right of Granuleuse look for the next opening just a bit higher up the trail.


Tricam and nut heaven, a lot of the cracks are heavily pocketed, you'll find chicken heads and other smaller pockets.
Anchors are on gear.