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Voie de Rappel
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Regis Richard, Jacques LaMontange & F.X. Garneau 1975 |
Page Views: | 1,624 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | rocknice2 on Aug 31, 2015 |
Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Description
A nice route that has long cracks and features some exciting pocketed slab.
P1: 5.6 45m, Climb up some easily to get into a nice vertical finger/hand crack. follow this to a break in the trees. Belay on the treed ledge at 2 bolts.
P2: 5.7 55m, Directly over the belay is a small roof with a wide crack. Slap in a cam [3" cam OK 4" is better] and tackle the pocketed face. Once at a small ledge tackle yet another pocketed face t another ledge. Clip the rusty bolt and climb up to get into a sweet diagonal crack. Enjoy he left leaning crack until you spot a bolted belay at a nice clean ledge.
P3: 5.6 50m, Continue in the left leaning crack to a roof and pass it on the left. Now climb on a right rising line, staying close to the right leaning corner/roof features. Aim for the right end of a patch of trees. Once almost at the end you spy a set of belay bolts up on the treed ledge.
Descent: R1 35m, Rap to that patch of trees below you. Decide whether you want to pass this island on trees on the right or left. the anchor is about 10m below these trees.
R2 & R3 just reverse the route.
P1: 5.6 45m, Climb up some easily to get into a nice vertical finger/hand crack. follow this to a break in the trees. Belay on the treed ledge at 2 bolts.
P2: 5.7 55m, Directly over the belay is a small roof with a wide crack. Slap in a cam [3" cam OK 4" is better] and tackle the pocketed face. Once at a small ledge tackle yet another pocketed face t another ledge. Clip the rusty bolt and climb up to get into a sweet diagonal crack. Enjoy he left leaning crack until you spot a bolted belay at a nice clean ledge.
P3: 5.6 50m, Continue in the left leaning crack to a roof and pass it on the left. Now climb on a right rising line, staying close to the right leaning corner/roof features. Aim for the right end of a patch of trees. Once almost at the end you spy a set of belay bolts up on the treed ledge.
Descent: R1 35m, Rap to that patch of trees below you. Decide whether you want to pass this island on trees on the right or left. the anchor is about 10m below these trees.
R2 & R3 just reverse the route.
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