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Routes in Le Dôme

Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Onglée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Regis Richard, Jacques LaMontange & F.X. Garneau 1975
Page Views: 97 total, 4/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

A nice route that has long cracks and features some exciting pocketed slab.

P1: 5.6 45m, Climb up some easily to get into a nice vertical finger/hand crack. follow this to a break in the trees. Belay on the treed ledge at 2 bolts.

P2: 5.7 55m, Directly over the belay is a small roof with a wide crack. Slap in a cam [3" cam OK 4" is better] and tackle the pocketed face. Once at a small ledge tackle yet another pocketed face t another ledge. Clip the rusty bolt and climb up to get into a sweet diagonal crack. Enjoy he left leaning crack until you spot a bolted belay at a nice clean ledge.

P3: 5.6 50m, Continue in the left leaning crack to a roof and pass it on the left. Now climb on a right rising line, staying close to the right leaning corner/roof features. Aim for the right end of a patch of trees. Once almost at the end you spy a set of belay bolts up on the treed ledge.

Descent: R1 35m, Rap to that patch of trees below you. Decide whether you want to pass this island on trees on the right or left. the anchor is about 10m below these trees.
R2 & R3 just reverse the route.

Protection

Nuts and lots of Tricams up to blue and double pink & red. Cams 1-2" plus 4".
ALL Belays are bolted.

Location

Once the approach trail meets the cliff, head left along the base. Just before a sharp dip in the trail, you'll spot a nice vertical crack ending at a treed ledge.

Photos

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