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Routes in Le Dôme

Astral S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Onglée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 360 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Luc Martin & Co. 1984
Page Views: 314 total · 6/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Jul 14, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet crack trending left, the start is a bit tricky but the route is brilliant and well protected.
P1 5.7, 50m
head to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge.
P2 5.9, 55m
Head up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system.
you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there).
Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it.
keep heading up and cross another bail anchor of sling+ring.
Head up through the cleft in the wall, this last portion before the anchor is committing and not obvious to protect but once you figure it out it's a breeze.

The route used to go on for another pitch or two but the rock up there is extremely unstable and should be avoided.

Location

Head right from the approach trail, pass a couple clearing and spot a large left facing corner (Le Diédral), to its left an obvious left trending vertical crack!

Protection

Double rack, some bolted belay/rap.

Descent

From the top of the second pitch rappel STRAIGHT down to the ledge, eventually an anchor may be placed there to continue, pull your ropes straight down from there.
Traverse climbers right to the gap in the trees you came up, do a small rap to the end of pitch 1 belay station and head down.

Rappelling on an angle from the top to the P1 belay is a sure way to get your rope(s) stuck! beware.

Photos

PA Paquet  
 
I don't know who has started the rumors that the third pitch must be avoided, beacause really there is no problem with it. For me pitch three starts from the sling/old tat anchor above the roof, climbing a face two steps right (not intuitive) and then joining back a airy crack (large and often wet) that is right above the belay. The pitch then goes on to the trees on less interesting rock, but the crack is worth it. Dec 5, 2017

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