Type: Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 2 pitches
FA: Luc Martin & Co. 1984
Page Views: 1,856 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Jul 14, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Sweet crack trending left, the start is a bit tricky but the route is brilliant and well protected.
P1 5.7, 50m
head to the diagonal finger/hand crack, belay at a ledge.
P2 5.9, 55m
Head up the ledge above, traverse left and meetup with the left leaning diagonal crack system.
you have a pin/fixed nut below the roof if you feel like having an intermediate belay (add more gear and it's 5.7 up to there).
Follow the left facing corner up to the roof, pull through it.
keep heading up and cross another bail anchor of sling+ring.
Head up through the cleft in the wall, this last portion before the anchor is committing and not obvious to protect but once you figure it out it's a breeze.

The route used to go on for another pitch or two but the rock up there is extremely unstable and should be avoided.

Location Suggest change

Head right from the approach trail, pass a couple clearing and spot a large left facing corner (Le Diédral), to its left an obvious left trending vertical crack!

Protection Suggest change

Double rack, some bolted belay/rap.

Descent Suggest change

From the top of the second pitch rappel STRAIGHT down to the ledge, eventually an anchor may be placed there to continue, pull your ropes straight down from there.
Traverse climbers right to the gap in the trees you came up, do a small rap to the end of pitch 1 belay station and head down.

Rappelling on an angle from the top to the P1 belay is a sure way to get your rope(s) stuck! beware.

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