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Routes in Le Dôme

Astral S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Broncos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Granuleuse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
L'Onglée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tâche Blanche T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Voie d'évitement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Voie de Rappel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wet Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Martin Goudreau, May 15 1977
Page Views: 1,218 total · 21/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

Great route with many options if you want to spice things up on the way.
Two 60+m ropes are a must.
Don't set belays off the rap rings! Try to use the chain links and leave room for other parties heading up or down the route.

Pitch 1 5.5
Climb up the polished steep face with tiny cracks (easier following vegetation on the left) passed the first tree ledge (easier after) up to the belay at the next tree ledge.

Pitch 2 5.5
Aim up and follow a diagonal depression towards the left then up again following easier features, traverse diagonally right when approaching the next belay ledge.

Pitch 3 5.6
Climb up path of least resistance until you get to a sloping ledge with a little headwall, watch your ankles (rope stretch) as you go up the crack on the left (crux) passed a bolt to a ledge with the belay on the right.

Pitch 4 5.5
(V1) Head up to the corner above the belay and make your way along a lower angle slab with a couple interesting bulges up to the belay.

V1 traverse right along tiny holds and not so great pro to a very textured black streak, this section is just amazing, passed a bolt and keep heading up the P4 slab.

Location

Route is at the far left end of the cliff when you take the main trail.
Rap down the belays, be mindful of other climbers.

Protection

Tricam and nut heaven, a lot of the cracks are heavily pocketed, you'll find chicken heads and other smaller pockets.
A couple bolts where you need them and belays/raps are bolted.

Photos

Francis QC
Montreal
Francis QC   Montreal
Routefinding was relatively hard for the grade, there are a lot of horizontal cracks that seem decent to place pro from below but once you get there it isn't. I ended up with considerable runouts without knowing if I was on the right path or not. The bolted belays are over 30m apart and are hidden by their ledges, this complicates thing to find the route.

It's not hard technically and physically but experience on previous slab climbs is recommended. In comparison, Chapel Pond slab is extremely straightforward.

I almost forgot....... the view is incredible!!! Jun 30, 2015
Francis Fontaine
Quebec, Quebec
 
Francis Fontaine   Quebec, Quebec
 
As my first trad, it was a lot of fun! I do recommend it for first time trad lead but...
  • Route finding is hard and there is some traverses. The topo picture perfectly describe the route so study it or download offline. I was lucky there was other parties confirming I was at the right place.
  • A lot of small hold like bi-fingers. The slab does give the 5.6 but for me, technically it feels like 5.8. I wound't bring climbers who is not confortable in 5.8.
  • There is some runout, one being at the end of pitch 3 and I had run out of quickdraws after that one.
  • Nut and tri-cam paradise! Didn't use any 2" and larger protection.
  • Nice bolted crux at the end of pitch 3 being a firm 5.8 move.
May 2, 2016
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.6
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.6
Francis, Welcome to Trad Slab climbing!
Yup, even veteran Trad climbers will suffer the foot/calf burn on Granuleuse and its darker cousin Onglee (DON'T TRY THIS ROUTE IF YOU'RE BEGINNER TRAD!).
There's a great piece of protection to use for those shallow horizontals, they're tri-cams, a double set from pink (#0.5) to blue (#2).
And yes, that headwall on pitch 3 is the crux.
For exposure though, my favorite part is taking the black ultra textured wall on the right on the 4th pitch.
When it comes to rating, it's pretty close, the whole area is using old-school ratings like you'll find in New Hampshire, Adirondacks, Gunks, Yosemite etc. There's no gym comparisons. May 2, 2016

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