Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||579 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Feb 1, 2019|
|Admins:||Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco|
Go up very sandy, soft rock to get established on the wall. Continue up tufa blobs in a black streak to a right knee-bar rest. Move up and left through more tufa holds to a horizontal jug, then a big move to a ledge. Get established on the ledge (there's another restful right squat-style knee-bar on the ledge).
Punch it through a blank section--the technical crux--on crimps. I've seen this climbed several ways; I used slopey crimps straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing, 4"-deep edge. Go up this left-facing edge to its top, clip, then move left onto a steep face with several horizontal crimp rails. Make a hard move to a right-hand tufa pinch (redpoint crux), then up the horizontal crimp rails to the chains.
I was too pumped to clip the last quickdraw, and I heard from others that this is common for the redpoint.