Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Feb 1, 2019
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Do not use the dirt road to access the canyon. Details

Description

Excellent route with several full-recovery rests. It's the next step up from Ego Lounge or Lounge Puppy.

Go up very sandy, soft rock to get established on the wall. Continue up tufa blobs in a black streak to a right knee-bar rest. Move up and left through more tufa holds to a horizontal jug, then a big move to a ledge. Get established on the ledge (there's another restful right squat-style knee-bar on the ledge).

Punch it through a blank section--the technical crux--on crimps. I've seen this climbed several ways; I used slopey crimps straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing, 4"-deep edge. Go up this left-facing edge to its top, clip, then move left onto a steep face with several horizontal crimp rails. Make a hard move to a right-hand tufa pinch (redpoint crux), then up the horizontal crimp rails to the chains.

I was too pumped to clip the last quickdraw, and I heard from others that this is common for the redpoint.

Location

20' left of the large flake (that you can walk behind), and right of a large bush growing from the cliff face and hanging down to the ground.

Protection

12 (?) bolts; fixed anchor.

Photos

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