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Routes in La Boca
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[Redacted] S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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[Redacted] S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Abduccion Anunnaki S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Aga's Route S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ayotzinapa 43 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Boca Burger S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cuba Libre S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Rider S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ego Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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El Arte de Volar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fantastic Voyage Extension S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fantastic Voyage/Viaje Fantastico S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Feral Coneja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fuerza Civil S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Fuzzy Tufa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gold Connection S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hijo de Puta S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Honey Bear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Justified S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lado a Lado S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lounge Puppy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Marisa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Michael Jackson Tufa S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mojito S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mouchie Mouchie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ménage à Trois S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Open Project S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Piña Colada S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Porn Star Obsessions S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Que hay de mi? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sex on the Beach S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shaken not Stirred S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Short Island Ice Tea S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sound of the First Season, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sound of the second season S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Tears of Gold S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tears of Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tecalotito S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tecalotito Extension S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tranceiopathic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tres Amigos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Trucutrulove (full) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trucutrulove (sub) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tufa Lunes S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweaker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Where's Waldo? S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Willson Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,175 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Feb 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Do not use the dirt road to access the canyon.
Details
The dirt road is private property and the owner no longer wants it to be used to access the canyon. Use the creek bed to access the canyon.
Description
Excellent route with several full-recovery rests. It's the next step up from Ego Lounge or Lounge Puppy.
Go up very sandy, soft rock to get established on the wall. Continue up tufa blobs in a black streak to a right knee-bar rest. Move up and left through more tufa holds to a horizontal jug, then a big move to a ledge. Get established on the ledge (there's another restful right squat-style knee-bar on the ledge).
Punch it through a blank section--the technical crux--on crimps. I've seen this climbed several ways; I used slopey crimps straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing, 4"-deep edge. Go up this left-facing edge to its top, clip, then move left onto a steep face with several horizontal crimp rails. Make a hard move to a right-hand tufa pinch (redpoint crux), then up the horizontal crimp rails to the chains.
I was too pumped to clip the last quickdraw, and I heard from others that this is common for the redpoint.
Go up very sandy, soft rock to get established on the wall. Continue up tufa blobs in a black streak to a right knee-bar rest. Move up and left through more tufa holds to a horizontal jug, then a big move to a ledge. Get established on the ledge (there's another restful right squat-style knee-bar on the ledge).
Punch it through a blank section--the technical crux--on crimps. I've seen this climbed several ways; I used slopey crimps straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing, 4"-deep edge. Go up this left-facing edge to its top, clip, then move left onto a steep face with several horizontal crimp rails. Make a hard move to a right-hand tufa pinch (redpoint crux), then up the horizontal crimp rails to the chains.
I was too pumped to clip the last quickdraw, and I heard from others that this is common for the redpoint.
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