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Areas in El Salto

In-Trance Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
La Boca 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
La Boquita 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
La Garganta 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
La Palma (The Palm) Sport 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Las Animas Wall 0 / 34 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Quintessence 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tecolote Cave 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 4,420 ft
GPS: 25.382, -100.236 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,734 total · 291/month
Shared By: lucerol on May 18, 2007
Admins: Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham
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Description

EL SALTO, NUEVO LEON, MEXICO

El Salto is located in a small town in Santiago , Nuevo Leon , named Cienega de Gonzalez. Just 2 hours away from Monterrey this climbing zone is different than Potrero Chico and Huasteca. There are a lot of tufas, a cave and overhanging! Besides big mountains and wood rounds the place.

The name “El Salto” is because a waterfall that you only see in raining season.

Cienega de Gonzalez is a very quite town situated in the Sierra Madre Oriental where you can find everything you need to spend some climbing days. There are little stores to buy food and water. If you come to El Salto you have to try the apple wine that is produced in the town.

The weather is excellent for climbing in every season. It is cold in winter and nice in summer.

El Salto has very hard routes in the Tecolote´s cave and the Animas wall, the easier one is a 5.11c and the harder is 5.14a. You will have a lot of fun climbing in El Salto.

Getting There

If you go to El Salto from Monterrey take Pino Suarez Ave to the south, cross the Santa Catarina River and turn to the left to take Morones Prieto Ave. Straight ahead and then turn to the right in Eugenio Garza Sada Ave to the south. At the end of this avenue begins the 84 Federal Highway or Carretera Nacional. Follow it and some meters after “El Cercado” town turn to the right in the Laguna de Sanchez road, this road takes you to the Cola de Caballo waterfall. Once you see a little town with a lot of cabins, just after the Vitro Parque El Manzano, you will know you are in Cienega de Gonzalez.

If you go on bus buy a ticket to “El Cercado” in the Monterrey bus station. This town is located on the Carretera Nacional, like 1 hour away from el Salto. When you get to the Cercado square take a bus to Laguna de Sanchez. It is better if you say to the driver you are going to the Salto in Cienega de Gonzalez so he can tell you when you are there.

“El Cercado-Laguna de Sanchez” bus schedule: Monday to Sunday at 8 am and 5 pm . The rate is 5 usd.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Salto

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Culo De Merlin
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Alien Tufa (1st Pitch)
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 28
La Felicidad
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 29
Brotherhood
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Ramones Mushroom
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Culo De Negra
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Muchos Conjuros
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Body Groovin'
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 8
Hijo de Puta
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Nosferatus
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Alien Tufa
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Tufa Luna
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 12
Camino del Chino
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Infierno del Dante
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 4
Dante's Inferno Extension
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Culo De Merlin Tecolote Cave
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Alien Tufa (1st Pitch) Las Animas Wall
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Felicidad Tecolote Cave
 28
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Brotherhood Las Animas Wall
 29
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ramones Mushroom Las Animas Wall
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Culo De Negra Las Animas Wall
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Muchos Conjuros Las Animas Wall
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Body Groovin' Las Animas Wall
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hijo de Puta La Boca
 8
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Nosferatus Tecolote Cave
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Alien Tufa Las Animas Wall
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tufa Luna Las Animas Wall
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Camino del Chino Las Animas Wall
 12
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Infierno del Dante Las Animas Wall
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Dante's Inferno Extension Las Animas Wall
 4
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in El Salto »

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Photos

ABaxter
Estes Park, CO
ABaxter   Estes Park, CO
Anyone know anything about the long time bolting project going on across the canyon from the normal bolted walls here? There is a portaledge at what looks to be 5 - 7 pitches up and fixed lines getting there as of Jan. 08. Jan 23, 2009
jeb
jeb  
Across from the Animas wall? If so I believe that it is sombra del chamán. Started in 96 or 97 by Alex Patino and Paco Medina Feb 3, 2009
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
El Salto is one of the sickest places I have ever climbed at. What's super cool about El Salto is it has a little bit of a mystique about it. Not many people have been to it, its someone difficult to find and there is not much in the way of information on this place. I read somewhere before I went that you will need to bring a stretcher because when you first spot the walls you will pass out. I completely agree! El Salto is surely a world class spot with amazing and equally interesting rock. There are ALOT of really great routes here and I mean REALLY GOOD! Be sure to bring your big guns for all the world class 5.13's that are here. Every 5.13 I got on here seemed to be my favorite route until I got on the next one. It's that kind of place. Some helpful things that you will surely want to know about this place. Getting here is a bitch. I have heard that you can get to El Salto by taking a bus from Monterrey but be prepared for a HUGE adventure. I have heard from multiple sources that the bus ride takes 12 hours for what can be done in by car in 2 hours. I would strongly recommend that you drive down to El Salto either by renting one or in your own. The hands down EASIEST way to find this place(I STRONGLY RECOMMEND) is to have a GPS unit. Most portable gps units(the kind for cars)has a Mexico application that you can purchase for about 50 bucks which is pretty detailed and will make driving in Mexico WAY more enjoyable. Driving in the Monterrey area is a HUGE adventure in an of itself. There are loads of traffic, the signs make no sense(they don't use street numbers like in the US), there is massive amounts of construction ALL the time and everyone seems to drive however they want. With that said, if you punch the Latitude and Longitude coordinates into your GPS for Collo de Caballo(which is a local waterfall and tourist destination for the area) your gps will take you more or less right to El Salto. The coordinates for Collo de Caballo are Lat 25.3863 Lon -100.1474 . If you punch these numbers in and have a Mexico App already in place it will take you right there. It's super easy. Any other way just be prepared to get seriously lost. Once you get off the exit from Mexican 85(the National Highway) for Collo De Caballo, you will start driving up a mountain road. The road up to El Salto and the tiny little mountain town of Cienega de Gonzalez is INCREDIBLE. You will drive for about 45 minutes up this moutain road into what feels like a different world. It's hard to believe that a place like this exists so close to a major city(Monterrey pop. 8 million). The road gains probably 3,000 feet in elevation over 45 minutes. You will just keep driving up and up and up on switchbacks through the most beautiful terrain. You will see waterfalls, Huge cliffs and beautiful forests for as far as the eye can see. When you get to the town of Cienega de Gonzales you will continue through on the main street to the far uphill side. You want to be looking for the big white church which will be on your left. Almost directly across from the church you will see a wood sign on the right that is brown with the words Bienvenidos El Salto painted in yellow. This sign looks similar to the signs in the US for a state park. Once you see the sign, you turn onto the small dirt road that enters into the park. From here, know that you need a car with a little bit of ground clearance(preferably 4 wheel drive) just to get to the upper parking lot. Trucks, SUV's or Jeeps are preferred here. How you will know that you are at the upper parking lot is when the road changes from driving in the dry river bed and starts going up into the mountains. The road past the upper parking lot is Ultra burly and a big SUV or truck with lots of ground clearance is the only things that will make it down to the cliff. From the upper parking lot, its about an 8 minute walk down the road into the canyon to get to the Las Animas Wall. This is one of the 2 main walls in the El Salto proper. To get to the Tecolote Cave, continue past the Las Animas Wall and down into the dry river basin for about 15 minutes. Pass the dry waterfall and continue for a while in the river bed until you see an impressive cave high up on the hillside on the right. Look for a faint trail with a cairn(this is easy to miss) and continue up the trail to the cave. The Tecolote Cave and the Las Animas wall are both world class and very different in nature. Las Anamas Wall is slightly overhanging orange rock with stripes of gray and black tufas with everything from crimps and pinches to climbing on bulbous stalagtites that jut out from parts of the wall. The Tecolote Cave is steep overhanging climbing at its best with very unique features including tons of stalagtites and tufs. The terrain here is steep, hard to read and routes are stout in nature. Your first burn on most routes(even the easy ones) is going to be working out the beta getting into and out of all the rests. You can do everything from bat hangs to upside down double knee bars and just about everything in between. The key to sending alot of the routes in the cave since they have such hard bouldery sections is to get creative and rest whenever you can. Where to stay? You more or less have one of 2 options while in El Salto. You can either camp in the dry river bed near the upper parking lot. It is beautiful, safe and primitive but you will have no amenities. You will need full camping supplies. You can also pitch a tent in Kika's backyard for FREE with the expectation by her of a tip at the end of your stay. Kika's is kind of the go to place when ur in El Salto. Kika is a nice Mexican woman who loves to cook for visiting climbers. I believe it is how she makes her living so climbers are WELCOME and WANTED. Kika has bathrooms that you can use for 5 pesos, a mini supermarket where you can buy the basics and an outdoor kitchen setup where she will cook for you. Look for the building in town with the words Dona Super Kika on the side painted in big red letters. It is hard to miss. Having Kika cook for you is a right of passage at El Salto. She speaks no English, cooks enough food to feed and army and the outdoor kitchen is quite entertaining with a wide variety of animals running around the backyard. Again she doesn't speak any English so knowing a little Spanish to get by certainly helps! I recommend camping in the river bed which is super beautiful and when ur feeling lazy after a day of cragging you can make the quick 5 minute drive from your site to Kika's and have her cook for you. This is exactly what we did and it worked out quite well. Kika's is also a deposito which means she is always well stocked with tequila, cold beer, mango juice and soda's. Be sure to check out the apple wine which is produced in the area. It's very good and probably one of the only areas in the world where you can try this stuff. Overall, El Salto is not to be missed for anyone looking for a truly unique and exciting adventure with world class crags that seem to be empty all the time. Don't be surprised if you have the whole place to yourselves! Enjoy and I hope this information helps some people make there way down to this place. Also one quick side note here is that there is endless potential to bolt new routes and establish first ascents so don't forget to pack your drill! Have fun...... Mar 25, 2012
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
On the behalf of long time friend Ulric Rousseau, currently the main developer of El Salto.

1- To get you turned on, here is a really cool video Ulric put together featuring El Salto:

vimeo.com/90112616

Ulric has a guidebook in the works and I will update with guidebook information when it is available.
But how to get there is the first step, right?
So here we go.

2- Directions to El Salto:

El Salto is a 2 hour drive southwest of Monterrey from Potrero Chico. To get to El Salto, or the town, Cienega de Gonzalez, head south from Potrero Chico on the 53 towards Monterrey. Follow the San Nicolas/Escobedo signs
(30km) that lead you into Monterrey. Be careful, speed limit is 30 km/h in the school zones.

Once you have passed Escobedo, you will come to a huge, complicated lighted intersection. Follow the Manuel L.
Barragan signs for ZONA CENTRO (right). As you turn right from the intersection, go immediately to your Second to left lane and stay there. Follow traffic right of the over pass, and under it, left and in towards Monterrey. You will pass a shopping mall on your right with a CINE complex and a Sierra madre as you do this. Keep straight onto Manuel L. Barragan after the left turn, as you cross the city center. You should see an arch at the Pino Suarez Intersection. Drive under it. Continue straight until you reach Morones Prieto. You want to head south (left). You must cross the huge concrete riverbed, which will then give you the option of direction, stay left and head left (south).

From there, follow 85 ( CD Victoria ) south towards Revolution. Take the Avenida de la Revolution exit, which basically takes you into a bad part of town to highway 85. You basically need to head south on the 85 ( CD Victoria ) towards a city called Linares. Once on the 85 ( CD Victoria ) you will pass the TEC UNIVERSIDAD, some small towns and mercados aka shopping avenues (about 20 km total from TEC to Colla de Cabalo). Stay on the highway until you see the signs for Colla de Caballo. Follow this. You will be making a right turn off the highway to go through a small town ( Cercado or Santiago) and up the mountain past Santiago towards the ritzy hotel complex, Colla de Caballo. Once at the hotel, keep going, following the signs for Laguna de Sanchez and Cienega de Gonzalez, Puerto Genoveo ect. Drive up the mountain road, being always careful, for another 22 km until you hit a small town called Cienega de Gonzalez. You will notice it because you will drive down into the town, and see multiple signs for cabins and villas for rent. On your left, driving in town, you will pass Dona Kika’s Deposito. (Stop here and set up camp. Ask first. Ask for Kika.) To get to Las Animas and the cave, continue straight until you’re about at the center of the town, with the only church on your left. Here, turn right onto a dirt road that leads into the dry riverbed and the canyon of El Salto. Remember, no one is around, so don’t leave anything in your car you are not willing to lose. Theft is very uncommon, but it happens. Enjoy your stay in El Salto and I hope to see you in Mexico. Apr 13, 2014
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
Does anyone know if there is cell service in El Salto/Cienega de Gonzalez? If so, what carrier? Feb 24, 2017
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Nope, there ain't. You can get wifi at Dona Kika's... Feb 24, 2017
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
Visited during the dry season but El Salto is known for the main waterfall located near the Las Animas Wall (meaning: wall of lost souls). Jan 17, 2018
Just finished an amazing trip to El Salto. If you climb 5.12 and up, get out there! There are multiple amazing crags stacked with amazing lines and new routes are going up regularly. There is also a guidebook in the works! All together, El Salto is one of the best places for hard sport climbing in Mexico!

If you plan to visit, please don't camp in the wash. I know it's free but if you have the money for gas or a plane ticket, you have $3 a night for camping. With growing numbers of climbers as well as 4x4 riding weekenders frequenting the canyon, human waste is becoming a problem. Please don't add your own waste.

For paid camping, the current options are Kika's or Rockcamp. Kika's is the cheaper option but Rockcamp has nicer amenities. I suggest staying with Kika. She is a very kind woman and giving a local like her your money does a lot to give climbers a good reputation. In such a small town, this goes a very long way.

Please visit! I know I'll be back. Feb 16, 2018
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
@Bruno - any updates on the guidebook? Mar 1, 2018
Rudy Peckham
Potrero Chico
Rudy Peckham   Potrero Chico  
You can find the guide at Rakkup
rakkup.com/guidebooks/el-sa… Apr 27, 2018
Schlaich1 Schlaich
Las Vegas, NV
Schlaich1 Schlaich   Las Vegas, NV
Can cabins be rented ahead of time? Anyone have any beta on best spots to stay for a group of 4-6 people? Jun 17, 2018
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Shlaich, get in contact with Joel: facebook.com/betoclimbing to get a house booked ahead of time Jun 28, 2018
Joe Guadarrama
El salto, Nuevo Leon, MX
Joe Guadarrama   El salto, Nuevo Leon, MX
we are shuttle services to el salto from the airport and back, any time!!let climbers drive you..https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=popjoe%27s%20climbing%20shuttle Nov 5, 2018

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