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Routes in Tecolote Cave

Codyote S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Culo De Merlin S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huiratica S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Felicidad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lawton's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Limestoner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hanger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosferatus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Soul Power S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Super Chongo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Tecolote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
la violencia S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Description

The Tecolote Cave is like any other typical limestone cave except for the abundance of tufas, stalactites, tunnels, and other weird features. There are a few vertical climbs on the edges of the cave, but the most striking lines are the steep ones. Grades range from 5.10 to 5.14.

Getting There

Follow the 4WD road past the Animas Wall until it drops down and rejoins the wash. From here continue for another 5 or 10 minutes and the cave will be obvious high up on the hillside to the right, somewhat obscured by trees. Just before coming directly below the cave, an obvious, well-traveled trail heads steeply up the hillside. All in all itÂ’s probably 20-30 minutes from the Animas Wall. Expect direct sun even in the winter.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tecolote Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Culo De Merlin
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Felicidad
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nosferatus
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
la violencia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Culo De Merlin 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
La Felicidad 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Nosferatus 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
la violencia 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tecolote Cave »

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Photos

The Mexican Rock Climbing Guide Book (North) lists 18 routes in the series of caves and has a small topo. The caves are really cool, though all the climbing listed is still in the 5.11b to 5.14a range. Really good quality routes that are worth the extra hike.

Note if the river is flowing you will have to cross a chest deep pool below the waterfall past Las Animas wall. Jan 12, 2016
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I am blown away that this cave only has a few routes listed here on mountain project. This cave is way larger than you would expect with loads of routes that are not listed. Currently(March 2012), there is a topo in the center of the cave laying on the big flat rock near the back. The little blip states on moutainproject states that there are routes here ranging from 5.10 to 5.14 which is a bit misleading. There is one 5.10d called Culo de Merlin(or something like that), a few routes in the 12a range in the lower cave and then mostly 5.13 for everything else. All of the routes in the main cave are super sick and severely overhanging on the craziest features. Be sure to check out La Violencia(13a) which has a violent horizontal dyno to a big stalagtite hanging down in the ceiling, Tecolote(13a)which is gymnastics roof climbing at it's best, and Huiratica(13b)which is steep, long enduro climbing on awesome features. There are also quite a few 13+'s and a few 5.14's with more development surely coming over the next few years. Overall, this crag is sick and you will not be dissapointed. If climbing on steep rock and the wildest features is your thing then the Tecolote Cave is the place for you. Enjoy!!!! Mar 25, 2012

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