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Routes in Tecolote Cave

Codyote S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Culo De Merlin S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huiratica S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Felicidad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lawton's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Limestoner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Hanger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosferatus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Soul Power S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Super Chongo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Tecolote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
la violencia S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknow to me
Page Views: 640 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jack Sparrow on Jun 1, 2013
Admins: Ricardo Orozco

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Description

This route starts with big throws to good jugs probably 12a. At the thrity foot mark the jugs disappear and you are at the crux. There are two ways to do the crux one is a huge double dyno to a stalactite hanging off the wall. This move is very big and aggressive once you catch the dyno the crux is holding the swing. ( its a violent move hence the name)The other way to do the crux involves a v7 crimp boulder problem involving drop knees and horrible crimps and pinches on a very steep section of wall to get to the stalactite. If you dyno the route is 13a doing the crimp beta is 13b. This grade was confirmed by Spanish sport climber Dani Andrada, A casual on sight for him. After the crux you get a no hands rest sitting on the stalactite. Finish on sequential steep pumpy 12a jug climbing to a tricky move at the anchor. This is a great route but can be quite brutal if you try the dyno, my buddy got pretty destroyed smacking the stalactite numerous times.

Location

The route is located in the tecalote cave on the left side.

Protection

well bolted fixed draws, check for condition of draws as they have been up for a while.

Photos

MAKB
Potrero Chico, MEX
 
MAKB   Potrero Chico, MEX