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Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress
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7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dave McRae. FFA: Dave McRae & Mai Hymen 1/13/2019 |
| Page Views: | 943 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Dave McRae on Jan 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
On a crag known for big choss, Chosstafarian feels the biggest and chossiest. This geologic tour takes you up a color and texture changing endless flake, through overhanging onion layers of mystery rock, to a final steep fin of tuff extruded from the upper wall of detritus. It's well bolted and safe, but may still have you praying to the rock gods. Are you a Chosstafarian?
Best pitches to link: 2 & 3.
P1: 5.10b*** Climb the first pitch of Jim Climbing (right-most route on the main ledge). At the anchor, continue up and right for another 20 feet to a higher anchor and good stance at the base of a huge corner. 14 bolts. 105 ft.
P2: 5.11a**** "Bob Gnarly Flake". Jam, face climb, bridge-the-gap, and pimp-the-flake on this signature pitch. 14 bolts. 110 ft.
P3: 5.10c*** "Dreadrocks Dihedral". Stem, jam, and keep the barn door closed, up a steep corner to a good ledge. 6 bolts. 50 ft.
P4: 5.11c*** "No Send it, No Cry". Follow better rock on the ridge to a rugged boulder problem straight up the fin. Get up, stand up on the summit and yell, "Praise rock Chosstafari!!!" to the rock gods. Then, lower back to the good ledge. 6 bolts. 60 ft.
Best pitches to link: 2 & 3.
P1: 5.10b*** Climb the first pitch of Jim Climbing (right-most route on the main ledge). At the anchor, continue up and right for another 20 feet to a higher anchor and good stance at the base of a huge corner. 14 bolts. 105 ft.
P2: 5.11a**** "Bob Gnarly Flake". Jam, face climb, bridge-the-gap, and pimp-the-flake on this signature pitch. 14 bolts. 110 ft.
P3: 5.10c*** "Dreadrocks Dihedral". Stem, jam, and keep the barn door closed, up a steep corner to a good ledge. 6 bolts. 50 ft.
P4: 5.11c*** "No Send it, No Cry". Follow better rock on the ridge to a rugged boulder problem straight up the fin. Get up, stand up on the summit and yell, "Praise rock Chosstafari!!!" to the rock gods. Then, lower back to the good ledge. 6 bolts. 60 ft.
Location
Hike up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. At the end of the rock stairs look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge. Chosstafarian shares the first pitch with Jim Climbing, the farthest right route on the ledge.
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