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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deception Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: prep: Dave McRae FFA: Dave McRae & Alan Collins 11-29-2016
Page Views: 854 total · 57/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Anglin n' Danglin' is a fully bolted sport climb with sustained 5.11 climbing and mind blowing position.
Start at the bolted anchor on the left side of the main ledge.

P1. 5.11a. 30 feet of chossy 5.6 leads to better rock in a left facing corner. 8 bolts. 90 feet.

P2. 5.11b. Sustained stemming in a right facing corner. Avoid the obvious descent anchor above the ninth bolt, and step left to a hidden anchor at a good stance. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

P3. 5.10d. Straight forward face climbing leads to a comfortable ledge. 5 bolts. 40 feet.

P4. 5.11a. The money pitch! Crank on the ever steepening flake to a crux at the fourth bolt. The difficulty eases only slightly as you angle n' dangle your way across an exposed traverse to the anchors. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

P5. 5.7. A utilitarian march to the summit. Tread lightly as you follow a path of cleaning scars to the top. 70 feet.

Descent: four rappels with a single, 70 meter rope. From the anchor atop P4, rap to the descent anchor atop P2. Or, scramble off the back.

Location

Hike up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. Where the rock stairs turn to a polished slab, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge.

Protection

Quick draws and runners. No pitch has more than nine bolts.
Good stuff!!!
The money pitch is exhilararing Oct 17, 2017
Charlie Egan  
 
This thing is a blast. Oct 11, 2017
bradyk  
Got on Anglin' n' Danglin' today and was very pleased with the climb. I agree with Alan that pitches 2&4 are standouts, especially 4. Nice addition to Smith multipitches, Thanks Dave! Aug 6, 2017
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
 
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
 
This is an amazing line, the best multi pitch Ive done at Smith Rocks! While there still is a little grit on the feet and a few crumbly hand holds, it will clean up with a few more ascents. Close bolts make this route very user-friendly and easy to enjoy. Both the 2nd and 4th pitch are unbelievable. I would highly recommend this route to anyone who climbs 5.11 and wants to get their adventure on.

Really nice work Dave!! Dec 9, 2016

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