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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deception Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: prep: Dave McRae, solo FFA: P3 DM & Tyler Tanhoff 11-3-2016, complete FFA: DM & Alan Watts 11/2017
Page Views: 455 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Predominantly 5.10 movement with a short 5.11 boulder problem crux, this seems like the kind of climb Mr. Anglin would have liked. While the first two pitches seem so well bolted, you could almost mistake them for gym climbing, the bongo flakes of the third pitch give you the real Jim Climbing experience. Originally envisioned as a trad lead, some of the third pitch flakes would bend, but not break under the pressure of a pry bar. The entire pitch follows a crack, but two-thirds of the placements would be in hollow sounding flakes, so I bolted it. Luckily, most of the bongo flake terrain checks in around 5.9 and the stiff 5.11 crux cranks through solid rock. Tread lightly on this exposed and exciting pitch.

Start on the right side of the main ledge, at a bolt that is easily clipped from the ground.

P1. 5.10c. An initial steep move on crappy rock (.10-) leads to a good stance at 25 ft. A body length higher, the rock changes color, and the action and quality ramp up. Sustained climbing on good holds leads to a crux over a roof. 11 bolts. 90 feet.

P2. 5.10b. Step left off the anchor and follow good face holds up the middle of the face to a final, solid, layback off-width. Step right to an anchor at the base of a flake system. 8 bolts. 70 feet. This pitch easily links with pitch 1.

P3. 5.11c. Tread lightly as you clip spaced-out bolts up moderate layback flakes, to a stiff crux, passing a boulder problem in the sky. A hanging anchor makes a clean spot to lower back down with a 70 meter rope or, to continue to the top, traverse left 10 feet to the fourth pitch anchor of Anglin n' Danglin'. 12 bolts. 115 ft.

P4. 5.7. Follow extensive cleaning scars to the top. 6 bolts.

Descent: Four rappels with a single 70 meter rope. Or scramble off the back.

Location

Hike/scramble up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. Where the rock stairs turn to a polished slab, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge. Jim Climbing starts on the right side of the main ledge.

Protection

Fully bolted. Bring runners and 20 quickdraws to link pitches 1&2.

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