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Anglin's Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-10 Split S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Elevation:	3,165 ft
GPS:	44.376, -121.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,223 total · 231/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins:	Nate Ball, Micah Klesick History (Admin Only): Nate Ball approved "Getting There" Jan 30, 2019 View all 3 Nate Ball approved "Description" Feb 6, 2019 Nate Ball approved "Description" Feb 8, 2019

Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. Check the website for regularly updates. This is what it said in 2017...

"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.

Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.

CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."

Description

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin. It's best described as four star movement and position on heavily cleaned one star rock. It hosts five multi-pitch sport climbs to the top, a 5.12 base route, and the newly refurbished, excellent crack climb, Deception Crack. All routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move.
All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress. Expect loose rock.

Please respect the seasonal closure for Golden Eagle nesting. It's generally closed from early February through early August, but the specific dates change from year to year.

Getting There

Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes. At the end of the rock stairs, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt.