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Anglin's Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Elevation:	3,169 ft
GPS:	44.376, -121.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	14,601 total · 284/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin. It's best described as four star movement and position on heavily cleaned one star rock. It hosts five multi-pitch sport climbs to the top, a 5.12 base route, and the newly refurbished, excellent crack climb, Deception Crack. All routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move.
All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress. Expect loose rock.

Please respect the seasonal closure for Golden Eagle nesting. It's generally closed from early February through early August, but the specific dates change from year to year.

Getting There

Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes. At the end of the rock stairs, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anglin's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 3 ● Deception Crack Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 30 ● Lava Lanes Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 18 ● Anglin n' Danglin' Sport 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 5 ● Jim Climbing Sport 4 pitches