Elevation: 3,165 ft
GPS: 44.376, -121.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,223 total · 231/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin.  It's best described as four star movement and position on heavily cleaned one star rock.  It hosts five multi-pitch sport climbs to the top, a 5.12 base route, and the newly refurbished, excellent crack climb, Deception Crack. All routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move.
All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress.  Expect loose rock.

Please respect the seasonal closure for Golden Eagle nesting.  It's generally closed from early February through early August, but the specific dates change from year to year.

Getting There

Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes.  At the end of the rock stairs, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anglin's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Lava Lanes
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Anglin n' Danglin'
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lava Lanes
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Anglin n' Danglin'
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
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