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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deception Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin.  It's best described as four star movement and position on heavily cleaned one star rock.  It hosts three multi-pitch sport climbs to the top, a 5.12 base route, and the newly refurbished, excellent crack climb, Deception Crack. All routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move.
All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.
Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress.  Expect loose rock.

Getting There

Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anglin's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Deception Arete
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Lava Lanes
Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Anglin n' Danglin'
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deception Arete
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lava Lanes
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Anglin n' Danglin'
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Anglin's Buttress »

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