All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (8) Anglin's Buttress

Deception Crack

Name: Deception Crack
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
GPS:	44.37648, -121.1337
FA:	FA: Bruce Burling, Frank Jager, 1970. FFA: Jeff Thomas, Ted Johnson, 1977
Page Views:	1,878 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Dec 23, 2017
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Originally aided, then eventually freed in the '70's, Deception Crack sat neglected until it got a cleaning and hardware upgrade in 2017. This former death tour of ancient bolts and teetering blocks now has good protection, improved rock quality, and is one of the better cracks on Smith Rock tuff for the grade.

P1. 5.10a. Start at an anchor left of the Jenga Pile on Anglin Buttress' main ledge. Angle up and left on the "Gutter" pitch of Lava Lanes for forty feet. At a rappel anchor, continue 110 feet straight up the obvious splitter crack to a chain anchor. 150 ft.

Options from here: Continue up Deception Arete (5.10+), or make two rappels with a single 70m rope. Your last choice should be to continue up the original off width and chimney to a notch (5.7R) then around the backside of Osa Thatcher's Needle (5.7R). It's unimproved since the '70's. Expect very loose rock.

Decetption Arete variation- P2. 5.10+. Step left off the belay stance, then delicately angle up and right to gain the arete near the third bolt. Continue on the exposed arete to a comfy ledge. 9 bolts. 100 feet.

P3. "300 Club", 5.10. Continue straight up the arete to the top of Osa Thatcher's Needle. 7 bolts. 60 feet.