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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deception Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: FA: Bruce Burling, Frank Jager, 1970. FFA: Jeff Thomas, Ted Johnson, 1977
Page Views: 138 total · 46/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on Dec 23, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details


Originally aided, then eventually freed in the '70's, Deception Crack sat neglected until it got a cleaning and hardware upgrade in 2017. This former death tour of ancient bolts and teetering blocks now has good protection, improved rock quality, and is one of the better cracks on Smith Rock tuff for the grade.

P1. 5.10a. Start at an anchor left of the Jenga Pile on Anglin Buttress' main ledge. Angle up and left on the "Gutter" pitch of Lava Lanes for forty feet. At a rappel anchor, continue 110 feet straight up the obvious splitter crack to a chain anchor. 150 ft.

Options from here: Continue up Deception Arete (5.10c), or make two rappels with a single 70m rope. Your last choice should be to continue up the original off width and chimney to a notch (5.7R) then around the backside of Osa Thatcher's Needle (5.7R). It's unimproved since the '70's. Expect very loose rock.


Deception Crack is accessed by the bolted 5.4 approach to the main ledge on Anglin's Buttress.


Double set of cams from big fingers to big hands, stoppers. No small cams needed. 8 bolts in 150 feet. Single 70m rope.



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