Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||FA: Bruce Burling, Frank Jager, 1970. FFA: Jeff Thomas, Ted Johnson, 1977|
|Page Views:||1,124 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Dave McRae on Dec 23, 2017|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
P1. 5.10a. Start at an anchor left of the Jenga Pile on Anglin Buttress' main ledge. Angle up and left on the "Gutter" pitch of Lava Lanes for forty feet. At a rappel anchor, continue 110 feet straight up the obvious splitter crack to a chain anchor. 150 ft.
Options from here: Continue up Deception Arete (5.10+), or make two rappels with a single 70m rope. Your last choice should be to continue up the original off width and chimney to a notch (5.7R) then around the backside of Osa Thatcher's Needle (5.7R). It's unimproved since the '70's. Expect very loose rock.
Decetption Arete variation- P2. 5.10+. Step left off the belay stance, then delicately angle up and right to gain the arete near the third bolt. Continue on the exposed arete to a comfy ledge. 9 bolts. 100 feet.
P3. "300 Club", 5.10. Continue straight up the arete to the top of Osa Thatcher's Needle. 7 bolts. 60 feet.