All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (8) Anglin's Buttress

7-10 Split

Name: 7-10 Split
Rating: 2.0

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	44.37648, -121.1337
FA:	Dave McRae, solo. FFA: P3: DM & David Potter 12/18/2017. Full: DM, Eric Sorenson & Lael Smith 1/3/2019
Page Views:	1,351 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Jan 28, 2019
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

7/10 Split clips bolts all the way to the spectacular summit of Osa Thatcher's needle. It travels the full spectrum of rock quality, but stays exposed and challenging the entire way. Best pitches to link: 2 & 3.

P1: 5.6* "The Gutter". From left of the Jenga Pile, angle up and left for 40 feet to the first anchor, directly below an obvious splitter crack. 3 bolts.

P2: 5.11b**** "7/10 Split". At the first bolt left of the anchor, go straight up and crank through a couple delicate cruxes on good rock. 9 bolts. 80 ft.

P3: 5.10d** "Deception Arete". Delicately angle up and right to gain the arete near the fifth bolt. Continue up the exposed arete to a comfy ledge. 11 bolts. 110 feet.

P3. 5.10c****"300 Club" Continue straight up the arete to the top of Osa Thatcher's Needle. 7 bolts. 60 feet.

Descent: Rappel the route with a single 70m rope.