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Routes in (6) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deception Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jim Climbing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lava Lanes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Collins
Page Views: 231 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Dec 9, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

Description

Optigrab starts out on choss like most routes on this wall, but after the 5.6 climbing (first 3 bolts) the rock become remarkably solid. Cleaning this route was effortless, almost nothing came off. While the rock quality is 4/4 stars, the route itself doesn't stand out with all the classics at Smith Rocks. I would compare it in difficulty and quality to That 10d (a sandbagged 12a at smith).

Once the hard climbing begins, it doesn't really let up until you get the last bolt clipped. Continuous delicate face moves on crimps and side pulls dominate this climb. While this climb in entirely safe, it forces you to climb hard above protection making it feel like most routes at Smith Rocks.

(SECOND, THRID, AND FOURTH PITCH COMING SOON!!!)

Like arete climbing? If so, your in luck! These coming pitches are fully bolted aretes and red-tagged. All pitches should be cleaned, sent and ready for action by spring of 2018. Only starts one pitch with Anglin and Danglin (5.11b), and at that its the 5.7 top-out.

Pitch 2 5.12b/c? 9 bolts 25m-Starts up a balancy and powerful arete system with rest and bouldery cruxes. Rides the arete the whole way up on good red stone.

pitch 3 5.8? 2 bolts 10m - Small traverse across dihedrals and aretes. Nothing special

Pitch 4 5.12+/13-? 10 bolts 30+m- The prize pitch! Climb a slightly overhanging arete on perfect rock for 30 meters capped by a bouldery roof 85 meters off the deck. Hard to say what the grade is, but its for sure going to a classic smith multi pitch for strong sport climbers. Cant wait to open it up to the public!

Pitch 5 5.7 6bolts 25m- 5.7 face climbing climbing on cleaned choss to the top.

Rappelling- Rap the entire route to the base of the 4th pitch and continue straight down to the 1st anchor of Jim Climbing (5.10b). Its hard to miss the rappel stations. 4 raps total.

Location

Start left go the giant pile of rocks on 5.6 climbing and climb the left bolt line.

Protection

Quickdraw

Photos

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