Type: TR, 57 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 97 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 28, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of interesting moves.

directions: Start at small alcove about 10 ft left from the edge of the wall.
Aim roughly straight up toward the mid-way anchor for the route "Right Edge" (which is the 5th intermediate bolt of that route). About two-thirds of the way up, the rock above gets more difficult, so find the best place to go diagonal left about 5-7 ft (crux), then aim up toward a bit left of the top anchor for the route "Right Edge".

Variation: Start on the face right of gully and left of small alcove -- slopy holds, perhaps around 5.8.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
 
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Small alcove slightly right from below the top anchor for the route "Right Edge", about 10 ft left from the edge of the continuous rock of the wall.

- - > See W on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with ramshorn lower-off.
. . . (for more details, see Protection on the description page for the route "Right Edge").

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Roping: Top anchor could be reached by leading the route "Obelix" or the route "Right Edge".

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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