Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 168 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of fun positive moves on an arete.

Could be used as a first pitch to reach routes ("Mamba" + "Right Low Corner") on lower right of sector 8 Moynier, by stopping climbing at the mid-way anchor at the 5th bolt, one move up onto the rock above the anchor then walk right a short ways to the "low right" base of sector Moynier.

Start at the right edge of the continuous rock of the right-side slab (just left of somewhat broken gully).
Climb either just left of the edge, or directly on the edge / arete. Try to avoid touching anything right of the edge / arete because there is greater chance of loose or breakable rock.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the right edge of the continuous rock of the right-side slab. Just left of somewhat broken gully.

- - > see Z on this Photo

Protection

Lead: 6 intermediate bolts to anchor with ramshorn.
. . . (Intermediate bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch).

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with ramshorn (pigstail) lower-off.
. . (All bolts + upper hangers are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, installed 2017).
. . (Lower hanger + ramshorn are 316 Stainless steel - installed 2018).

Mid-way anchor at the 5th bolt from the bottom (2nd down from the top) is 2-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring.
. . (Upper bolt + hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, installed 2018).
. . (Lower bolt + hanger + rappel ring + chain + quick-links are Plated steel, 3/8 inch, installed 2018).

Also another anchor to the left and a bit below from the top anchor, which likely could help with top-roping some other climbing.
. . (See under the route "Obelix" for more info about this other anchor).

There are also facultative anchors and bolts above this anchor which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching anchors for this or other nearby routes from above. Or to help make the transition to a higher pitch on sector 8 Moynier - [ for more details see the sector 7 Lewis description page ].

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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