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Routes in 7-Melchsee

(to be deleted) TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Central - Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central - Left Ridge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Slab - Right Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Salamander S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, TR, 95 ft
FA: Ken+Sharon Roberts + Alistair Veitch + Tara
Page Views: 73 total, 19/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of fun moves. If looking lots of 5.0-5.3 climbing mostly on positive holds, this is the route.
. . (formerly called "Trail Slab - Face Left").

. . (Cleaner than the route to the right).

. . Could also be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

. . To connect to bolted sport routes going higher up to the top of the Dent d'Argentine, from the top anchor walk right (N) horizonally parallel to the top edge of the cliff to reach the standing dead tree, then follow the route "Low Connect from Melchsee" (or more difficult, "Right Connect from Melchsee").

Go roughly straight up to the top anchor, starting between right-facing corner and small buttress.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

The access trail for Melchsee and Miroir sectors meets the Melchsee rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. Walk left up about 15 feet to the left side of the buttress (and right from below a right-facing corner).

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring.
13 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (Two directional bolts below left and below right from top anchor to assist in Top-Roping other lines nearby).
Mid-level anchor (two bolts only, no connect, no lower-off) for Top-Roping with less Rope-stretch problem if climber falls near ground.
. . (Bolts + hangers + rappel ring for top anchor are 304 stainless. Intermediate bolts for leading and directional bolts and their hangers are all 304 stainless. Mid-level TR anchor: Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless; but due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel - until it gets replaced. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchors and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Melchsee sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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