Type: Sport, TR, 95 ft
FA: Ken+Sharon Roberts + Alistair Veitch + Tara
Page Views: 250 total · 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of fun moves. If looking lots of 5.0-5.3 climbing mostly on positive holds, this is the route.
. . (formerly called "Trail Slab - Face Left").

. . (Cleaner than the "Trail Slab Face Right" route).

. . Could also be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

For connecting to bolted sport routes going higher up to the top of the Silverhorn mini-peak, first there is a rope with a knot, attached to a sustantia mature tree above left from top of this route -- which the Leader could use to make an anchor to belay the followers up to gentle area on above the top of this route.  Next from there walk right (N) horizonally parallel to the top edge of the cliff to reach the standing dead tree. Next could follow the route "Divine Martine" (or more difficult, "Remix").

directions: Go roughly straight up to the top anchor, starting between right-facing corner and small buttress.
. . . (or could  stop at the mid-way anchor).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

The access trail for Lewis and Moynier sectors meets the Lewis rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. Walk left up about 15 feet to the left side of the buttress (and right from below a right-facing corner).

- - > see D on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain with ramshorn (pigstail).
13 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (Both bolts + upper hanger for top anchor are 304 stainless, Lower hanger and ramshorrn/pigstail are 316 stainless. Intermediate bolts and hangers for leading are all 304 stainless. Anchors and intermediate bolts installed 2017, except ramshorn in 2018).

Mid-level anchor two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with 2 carabiners attached to lower hanger. Purpose is for Top-Roping with less Rope-stretch problem if climber falls near ground.
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless; but due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel. The 6-link chain + quick-links + carabiners are plated steel. Bolts + hangers installed 2017. Chain + quick-links + carabiners installed 2018).

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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