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Routes in 7-Melchsee

(to be deleted) TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Central - Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central - Left Ridge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Slab - Right Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Salamander S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: TR, 95 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 45 total, 11/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Three interesting sequences each with a different rock style.

Up the right side crack on right side of face of detached flake.
Step left, then up along left side of bushes, and on straight up into dihedral. Next traverse Right about six feet to below crack.
Up the crack and diagonal right, finish straight up to right side off cliff-top bush.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Twelve-feet-high detached flake which is about twenty feet uphill right from where main access trail meets cliff.

- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Two-bolt top anchor (no connect, no lower-off), but no intermediate bolts for leading or directional TR (as of 2017).
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless; but due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel - until it gets replaced. Bolt and hangers installed 2017).

No intermediate bolts for leading yet as of 2017.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use trees at the top of the cliff for protection for the group leader to use rope to get down to top anchor.
warning: Lots of loose rock on slope between trees and top of continuous rock as of 2017, so clean this (with no one anywhere near underneath) before doing any top-roping.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Melchsee sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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