Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft|
|FA:||Ken + Sharon Roberts|
|Page Views:||93 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on May 26, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionVariety of fun interesting moves all the way, sustained in difficulty.
. . (formerly called "Central - Right Corner").
Connects well to a higher two-pitch climb in sector 8 Moynier.
Up to the top of the right-facing corner. Next up through the left side of two small roofs (or up whitish dagger then step left 5 ft). Finish up left side of small whitish buttress to its top 12 feet right of the obvious standing dead tree.
. . Variation (easier): Instead finish left of the whitish buttress toward the top anchor for the route "Central - Right Overlap" or to the standing dead tree.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
LocationUnder the big standing dead tree at the top of this low cliff, there are two right-facing corners about 25 feet apart along the base of this cliff. This route starts on the Right one of those two corners.
- - > see on this Photo
Protection9 bolts to anchor with "rams horn" lower-off.
Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, and a "rams horn" ("pig tail") lower-off piece, which is connected to the lower bolt hanger by a small shackle (which has claimed strength of 38 kN / 8500 lb).
. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch.
. . . the ramshorn and shackle are 316 Stainless steel.
. . . Lower hanger, chain, quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).
Also a directional bolt to the right and a bit below from this anchor, which perhaps could help with top-roping some other climbing.
. . (Bolt + hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch - installed in 2017).
There are also facultative anchors and bolts above this anchor which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching anchors for this or other nearby routes from above. Or to help make the transition to a higher pitch on sector 8 Moynier - [ for more details see the sector 7 Lewis description page ].
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.