Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Ken + Sharon Roberts|
|Page Views:||408 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on May 26, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
. . (formerly called "Central - Right Corner").
Connects well to a higher two-pitch climb in sector 8 Moynier.
Up to the top of the right-facing corner. Next up through the left side of two small roofs (or up whitish dagger then step left 5 ft). Finish up left side of small whitish buttress to its top 12 feet right of the obvious standing dead tree.
. . Variation (easier): Instead finish left of the whitish buttress toward the top anchor for the route "Central - Right Overlap" or to the standing dead tree.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
- - > see on this Photo
Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, and a "rams horn" ("pig tail") lower-off piece, which is connected to the lower bolt hanger by a small shackle (which has claimed strength of 38 kN / 8500 lb).
. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch.
. . . the ramshorn + shackle are 316 Stainless steel.
. . . Lower hanger + chain + quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).
There are also facultative anchors and bolts above this anchor which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching anchors for this or other nearby routes from above. Or to help make the transition to a higher pitch on sector 8 Moynier - [ for more details see the sector 7 Lewis description page ].
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.