Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 143 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of interesting fun moves, and a thoughtful crux sequence about a quarter of the way up.

Needs more cleaning especially in the upper section.

Up along the right-facing corner (perhaps nicer to take it mostly outside left), then before its top go Left + up (crux, with many possible combinations of holds to find and try -- those lacking reach or strength can substitute cleverness).
. . (Variation 1: getting into the inside of corner and going up over its top is likely more diffficult).
Then up mostly dark mottled rock staying well right from the vague ridge up to a two-bolt anchor.
. . (Variation 2: For a more difficult finish, above the corner stay more right).

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Under the big standing dead tree at the top of this low cliff, there are two right-facing corners about 25 feet apart along the base of this cliff. This route starts at the Left one of those two corners.

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with two carabiners.
. . (All bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger, carabiners, chain, and quick-links are plated steel. Installed 2017).

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

There is a directional bolt above right from this anchor, near the top of the route "Central - Left Overlap" -- which is left and a bit below from the two-bolt top anchor for the route "Central - Right Overlap", which could be useful to protect reaching this anchor from above - (for details see description of the route "Central - Left Overlap").

There are also facultative anchors and bolts above this anchor which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching anchors for this or other nearby routes from above. Or to help make the transition to a higher pitch on sector 8 Moynier - [ for more details see the Lewis sector description page ].

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could the route Central Slab - Left Ridge to reach two-bolt anchor above left from this one, then down-climb diagonal right to reach this route's top anchor.
Or perhaps could use directional from anchors above right to reach this anchor for this route.
. . (Or perhaps use a tree above left with a long-ish static line for a top anchor. But lots of loose rock on slope around top, so need to be very careful setting it up -- make aure everyone below stays very far away from below).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

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