Type: Sport, TR, 95 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 123 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on May 24, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Some interesting moves.
Crux is near the top, so it's about one grade less difficult if stop at the mid-way anchor.

directions: Start at bottom center of the small light-colored buttress (where the access trail meets the cliff).
Up to the top of that small buttress (first prong). Next up to the top of the second prong. Finish roughly straight up to the top anchor. Or could stop sooner at the mid-way anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Bottom center of the small light-colored buttress where the access trail meets the cliff.

- - > see E on this Photo

Protection

7 bolts to two-bolt top anchor.
, , , (One of those intermediate bolts is actually a two-bolt mid-way anchor)
. . . (4 bolts to the mid-way anchor).

Top-rope: Note that there is a more difficult sequence near the bottom, so with rope stretch if a climber on top-rope falls, they could hit the ground and get hurt. Several ways to reduce this hazard: (a) Belay from the top instead of the bottom; (b) Use a static or "semi-static" rope (but that's dangerous for Leading; (c) Set the top-rope anchor at the Mid-way anchor instead of the upper anchor; (d) Keep tension on the rope while the climber is near the bottom.

Upper anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with ramshorn lower-off on lower hanger.
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 stainless steel 3/8-inch. The lower hanger and the attached ramshorn/pigstail are 316 stainless 10mm. 8-link chain + quick-links are plated steel. Upper bolt and hanger installed 2017. Lower bolt + hanger + ramshorn + chain + quick-links installed 2018).

Mid-level anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with 2 carabiners on lower hanger.
. . (Both bolts + upper hanger are 304 stainless. The lower hanger + carabiners + chain + quick-links are plated steel.  All installed 2018).

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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