Type: TR, 95 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 152 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of 5.0-5.2 moves, if that's what you're looking for, but much of the rock in the upper part is moss-covered.
. . (for a cleaner route of similar difficulty, see "Trail Slab Face Left".

top-roping: Several ways to reach the top anchor to set up for top-roping: (a) Lead the route "Middle Prongs, then step over right about six feet from its top anchor; (b) Lead the route Salamander, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered (all with risk of injury from side-swing to reach the top anchor for the route "Middle Prongs"; (c) After somehow climbing the route "Right Corner", continue above to the two-bolt anchor above left from its top anchor, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered to reach to top anchor for this route.

directions: Start up the right edge of the small buttress (likely with hands on the elevated edge of the buttress).
Then roughly straight up to two-bolt anchor below top of cliff, staying left of small gully.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

The access trail for Lewis and Moynier sectors meets the Lewis rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. This route starts at bottom right on the small buttress.

- - > see F on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with rappel ring on lower bolt.
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 stainless. Not sure about the composition of the lower hanger and rappel ring -- more likely to be 304 stainless, but might be plated steel. Chain + quick-links are plated steel. All installed 2018).

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Unlike some other routes nearby, there is no mid-way anchor. So if use a normal dynamic rope with normal TR belay from the bottom there is risk of injury due to rope stretch if climber on top-rope falls near bottom of route. So consider using a semi-static or static roipe. Or belaying the climber from above.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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