Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||TR, 95 ft (29 m)|
|FA:||TR Sharon + Ken Roberts|
|Page Views:||296 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jul 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
. . (for a cleaner route of similar difficulty, see "Trail Slab Face Left".
top-roping: Several ways to reach the top anchor to set up for top-roping: (a) Lead the route "Middle Prongs, then step over right about six feet from its top anchor; (b) Lead the route Salamander, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered (all with risk of injury from side-swing to reach the top anchor for the route "Middle Prongs"; (c) After somehow climbing the route "Right Corner", continue above to the two-bolt anchor above left from its top anchor, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered to reach to top anchor for this route.
directions: Start up the right edge of the small buttress (likely with hands on the elevated edge of the buttress).
Then roughly straight up to two-bolt anchor below top of cliff, staying left of small gully.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
- - > see F on this Photo
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 stainless. Not sure about the composition of the lower hanger and rappel ring -- more likely to be 304 stainless, but might be plated steel. Chain + quick-links are plated steel. All installed 2018).
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Unlike some other routes nearby, there is no mid-way anchor. So if use a normal dynamic rope with normal TR belay from the bottom there is risk of injury due to rope stretch if climber on top-rope falls near bottom of route. So consider using a semi-static or static roipe. Or belaying the climber from above.
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.