Type: TR, 95 ft
FA: TR Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 171 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thoughtful moves in two parallel low crux sections (choose one first, then get lowered and try the other), then some interesting face climbing in upper part.

. . Also a 5.4 version (nice enough) alongside right which could use the same top anchor (but perhaps not the mid-level).

top-roping: There are two Top-Rope anchors available. The upper anchor is a a bit below the top of this slab, a few feet below and left from the two-bolt top anchor for the route "Salamander". The mid-way anchor is close under some trees above left from the right-facing corner (below and quite a ways left from the mid-way anchor for "Salamander"). The purpose of the mid-way anchor is to reduce the problem of rope stretch if the climber on top-rope falls near the ground when using the upper anchor with a normal dynamic climbing rope. Also might reduce side-swing if the climber on top-rope falls on one of the "corner" moves in the lower half.

Since this route has no intermediate bolts for leading, each anchor is most obviously reached by leading (or otherwise climbing on) the climb to the right ("Salamander"), then rappelling or getting lowered or down-climbing on below from one of the anchors on that route.

directions: Start at the base of the large right-facing corner which is at the right side of big overhang. Up on rock just right of corner for about ten feet to a bulge. Next up in the corner using holds on both of its sides. When not finding holds higher in the corner, exit left outside onto face, up a step or two on that, then swing over right back into the corner.
. . Variation 1 (similar difficulty, different kind of interesting climbing): At the bulge instead go straight up staying about two feet right of the corner and left of mossy gully -- using holds both in the corner and on the right edge of bulge (but not the mossy gully).
. . Variation 2 (5.3): At the bulge instead step right into the mossy gully and up (fun enough moves)..

Above the corner and bulge continue on easier holds up left side of face (with thick vegetation to the left side). Once past the vegetation see small buttress of light-color rock about five wide going straight to the top.
Step left above vegetation and go straight up just left of the buttress (5.6), roughly to the directional bolt. Or perhaps a bit harder if step farther left and go up through notch/groove.
. Variation 3 (5.4): Straight up the buttress to the top.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

The access trail for Lewis and Moynier sectors meets the Lewis rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. Walk left up about 25 feet to a large right-facing corner which is at the right side of big overhang.

- - > see B on this Photo

Protection

Upper anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with two carabiners on lower bolt.
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 stainless. The lower hanger + attached carabiners + chain + quick-links are plated steel. Upper bolt and hanger installed 2017. Lower bolt and hanger and carabiners and connecting chain installed 2018).

Mid-level anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain, with rappel ring on lower bolt.
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 stainless. Not sure about the composition of the lower hanger and rappel ring -- more likely to be 304 stainless, but might be plated steel. 2-link chain + quick-links are plated steel All installed 2018).

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

No intermedate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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