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Routes in 7-Melchsee

(to be deleted) TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Central - Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C0
Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central - Left Ridge TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Right Slab - Right Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Salamander S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: TR, 95 ft
FA: TR Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 45 total, 12/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 3, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thoughtful moves in two parallel low crux sections (choose one first, then get lowered and try the other), then some interesting face climbing in upper part.

. . Also a 5.4 version alongside right which could use the same top anchor.

Up on rock just right of corner for about ten feet to a bulge. Next up in the corner using holds on both of its sides. When not finding holds higher in the corner, exit left outside onto face, up a step or two on that, then swing over right back into the corner.
. . Variation 1 (similar difficulty, different kind of interesting climbking): At the bulge instead go straight up staying about two feet right of the corner and left of mossy gully -- using holds both in the corner and on the right edge of bulge (but not the mossy gully).
. . Variation 2 (5.3): At the bulge instead step right into the mossy gully and up.

Above the corner and bulge continue on easier holds up left side of face (with thick vegetation to the left side). Once past the vegetation see small buttress of light-color rock about five wide going straight to the top.
Step left above vegetation and go straight up just left of the buttress (5.6). Or perhaps a bit harder if step farther left and go up through notch/groove (but big loose rock here as of 2017).
. Variation 3 (5.4): Straight up the buttress to the top.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

The access trail for Melchsee and Miroir sectors meets the Melchsee rock at the Trail Slab just right of a small low buttress. Walk left up about 25 feet to a large right-facing corner which is at the right side of big overhang.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of 2017.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Melchsee sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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