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Routes in Stick Gully
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Abstinence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alchemist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Awakening T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box of Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brush Hogger’s Apprentice, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Casper the Friendly Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Swirls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Datura P2 Left Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elephant Penis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Day Sunshine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Happy Lollipop Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Itsy Bitsy Spider, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plato's Grotto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prelude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Promote The Segmentation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sandstone Scofflaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shadow Play T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Stick And Move T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stick Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stick Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stick Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stick-Slip Phenomenon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stickball TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Winter Wanderland T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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You're Dreaming T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.12904, -115.4878 |
| FA: | an ascent has been made, Jan 2018 |
| Page Views: | 935 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | dave custer on Feb 15, 2018 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Stick Gully is an exercise in oak tree beating, punctuated with occasional pitches of rock climbing, some of which is pretty good. And an absolutely crazy double helix pitch through the final chockstone/headwall.
P1: From the end of the scrambling, make your way to the top of the chockstones. Thrash a short ways to move the belay to the back of the gully.
P2: up the far back of the gully to delightful cracks to a level spot to more delightful crack climbing to oak trees. Thrash up in oak trees. A short distance before the next chock stone barrier, belay at a gash on the right.
P3: up the gash; maybe 40 feet; don't kid yourself; this is not the best pitch you've ever climbed.
P4: up the obvious crack in the left wall; maybe 25 feet; traverse right to belay on top of chock stones.
P5: grovel up the gash to a forest
p6: traverse climbers left on the ledge system and down/across slabs to return to the main gully below the final chock stones of doom.
P7: an interesting step-across leads to the right hole; follow this up, right, and back to daylight; continue the spiral (climber's right no longer makes sense when you are coming from inside the cliff...) through a second chockstone hole, a move or two, and the gentle upper reaches of Stick Gully, roughly at the height where the down climb from Fear and Loathing traverses into Gemstone Gully.
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