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The Brush Hogger’s Apprentice

Name: The Brush Hogger’s Apprentice
Rating: 2.0

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Stick Gully

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abstinence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Alchemist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Awakening T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Box of Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Brush Hogger’s Apprentice, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Casper the Friendly Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cinnamon Swirls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Datura P2 Left Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Elephant Penis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Good Day Sunshine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Happy Lollipop Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Itsy Bitsy Spider, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Plato's Grotto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prelude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Promote The Segmentation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sandstone Scofflaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Shadow Play T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Stick And Move T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stick Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stick Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stick Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stick-Slip Phenomenon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stickball TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Winter Wanderland T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	You're Dreaming T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.12904, -115.4878
FA:	an ascent has been made, March 2022, DCuster, RProps, & SRuff
Page Views:	462 total · 9/month
Shared By:	dave custer on Mar 25, 2022
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The 2 star quality rating is just for the first pitch: Climb a varying crack for ~20 feet to an OW/chimney, which is initially as easy as it looks. When the chimney becomes harder than it looks, climb the amazing huecos on the right wall—no gear—back to the crack; then up to a sloping stance under the roof. The left side of the roof consists of rock—I use the term generously—of disappointing quality; don’t touch it. Fire the roof and steep cracks above to a gear anchor. The climbing on this pitch is excellent, marred only by the uninspiring rock at the roof that you don't need to touch anyhow.

Continuing up is an exercise in chimneying and wide cracks in poor rock.
P2 Traverse left on nice black rock to the base of the chimney
P3 Up the chimney to an alcove
P4 Up the crack, through several alcoves; belay at the final one.
P5 A rising traverse left to the chimney/chasm with the amazing black varnish on the left wall; up the chimney to the trees.

Location

The crack/chimney system ~100’ left of Alchemist.

Protection

For the first pitch: gear to #6 camalot; extra hands and fists. If I’d had a VG9, I would have brought it. Small cams useful for keeping the rope out of the gear in the main crack. Rappel from gear anchor (not in place, 3/22); manage the ropes carefully on the descent.

If you continue to the top: P3 will soak up whatever colossal gear you want to bring; one of the pods on P4 might deserve a VG9. 180' rappel from trees into the gulley/slots behind to trees; down climb the tunnel to more trees; 35 meter rappel to the top of the first pitch of Alchemist; 35 meters to the ground. Manage ropes carefully.