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Routes in Stick Gully

Abstinence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Box of Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper the Friendly Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Fire, Crack of Fire boulder V3 6A
Elephant Penis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Day Sunshine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left arĂȘte, Roni size boulder V2 5+
Manteca, Manteca boulder V1 5
Off the Wagon, Abutment boulder V0 4
On a limb, Abutment boulder V3 6A
Plato's Grotto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prelude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Promote The Segregation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Play T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solidworks V6 7A
Stick Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stick Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stick and move T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stick-Slip Phenomenon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stickball TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Winter Wanderland T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
happy lollipop tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unknown in gully up & right of Stick climbs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
unknown left start to Datura T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
unknown right of hlt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: an ascent has been made, april 2017
Page Views: 235 total · 10/month
Shared By: dave custer on Feb 5, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

P1 200' Intricate climbing up the crack systems. start in the alcove below the middle crack; up this ~30 feet. below a 4 inch roof on the left, traverse left into the next crack system [alternatively, continue up the crack past a wide section, a tree, and another tree to the ledge system at 200 feet]. up the crack to an alcove; up and left to another alcove if continuing up; if rappelling, up and right to rappel anchor.
P2 100' From the belay nook to the top of the block on the left; step awkwardly across into the obvious crack. When the crack ends, traverse right to the next crack/chimney system; for the left, wide option, belay here; for the right hand crack option, continue right and up to a small stance beneath a tight hand crack.
P3 100' Up the wide crack on the left or up the hand crack on the right; both pitches end on a ledge with a tree.
P4 160' Up the chimney & crack on the left. #5 & #6 camalots, big bros, & valley giants. other gear options are widely spaced. Belay below the final overhang.
P5 40' Up into the chimney, squirm horizontal, move out to the lip, let your feet cut loose, and squeeze upward to a stance. In places it was possible to turn my helmeted head. The valley giants were not necessary on this pitch; make a present of them to your second...
P6 70' continue up the wide crack and chimney above

someone has sawn oak trees at the base of the climb pre-fire. there are bolts on top of pitch 1, getting past the trees on the alternative first pitch clearly had not been done by humans in decades... just above P1, there are old, rusted nuts and rappel tat. above this, there was no sign of previous climbing.

Location

Start in the alcove right of the Datura pillar. Go up the cracks to the obvious chimney system through the overhang at the skyline.

Protection

normal rack; one each #5 & #6 BD Camalot, #1 & #2 valley giant, #5 bigbro; shuttle these, can't imagine carrying any more big stuff; expect 250+ feet of wide with rare options for smaller gear/belay stances.

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