happy lollipop tower
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||an ascent has been made, april 2017|
|Page Views:||235 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||dave custer on Feb 5, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionP1 200' Intricate climbing up the crack systems. start in the alcove below the middle crack; up this ~30 feet. below a 4 inch roof on the left, traverse left into the next crack system [alternatively, continue up the crack past a wide section, a tree, and another tree to the ledge system at 200 feet]. up the crack to an alcove; up and left to another alcove if continuing up; if rappelling, up and right to rappel anchor.
P2 100' From the belay nook to the top of the block on the left; step awkwardly across into the obvious crack. When the crack ends, traverse right to the next crack/chimney system; for the left, wide option, belay here; for the right hand crack option, continue right and up to a small stance beneath a tight hand crack.
P3 100' Up the wide crack on the left or up the hand crack on the right; both pitches end on a ledge with a tree.
P4 160' Up the chimney & crack on the left. #5 & #6 camalots, big bros, & valley giants. other gear options are widely spaced. Belay below the final overhang.
P5 40' Up into the chimney, squirm horizontal, move out to the lip, let your feet cut loose, and squeeze upward to a stance. In places it was possible to turn my helmeted head. The valley giants were not necessary on this pitch; make a present of them to your second...
P6 70' continue up the wide crack and chimney above
someone has sawn oak trees at the base of the climb pre-fire. there are bolts on top of pitch 1, getting past the trees on the alternative first pitch clearly had not been done by humans in decades... just above P1, there are old, rusted nuts and rappel tat. above this, there was no sign of previous climbing.