Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 200 total · 6/month
Shared By: dave custer on Feb 4, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

3 short, fun, crack pitches to nowhere

P1: finger/hand crack to intersection with the chasm
P2: continue up the chasm/corner; #4 camalot assortment handy; parts of the chasm are wider than a #6 camalot, so expect to be on your own for a bit; belay at left/right option
P3: up left in the black corner; up wide crack & face; belay on ledge system underneath the crazy overhanging corner

Downclimb to trees and rappel back to the base of the climb.

Someone has cut the oak trees on the starting belay ledge before the fire. We found a sad rap anchor there too. Not sure whether these traces are from folks rappeling the major gully system uphill of the climb or from folks climbing below the crazy corner.

The crazy corner looks to be a piece of work. The rock is not special and much of the gear will be the tiniest of cams; see photo.

Location

At the mouth of stick gully, on the (climber's) left, to the right of Promote the Segregation, head up a major gully. At its top, head up a short gully on the right. Gain the left end of the oak thicket infested ledge above the gully; some climbing involved. A spacious belay ledge at the base of a finger/hand crack.

Protection

normal rack; extra #4 camalot(s), #5 camalot might get used

Photos

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