Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA Richard Harrison, Paul van Bergen, Sal Mamusia, and Nick Nordblom
Page Views: 1,207 total · 27/month
Shared By: Royal on Apr 26, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The first pitch generally consists of excellent moderate hand to fist crack climbing with plenty of face holds thrown in. I'd call it 5.8ish and it's 35 meters on the money. This pitch ends at a nice ledge.

The second pitch is slightly harder, though still 5.8, perhaps 5.9. You need a #6 BD to protect the first 15 feet or so off the anchor. The crack narrows and eases in difficultly.

Location

This route is higher up on the left side of stick gully. It is a few hundred feet down the gully from stick left and is situated on the opposite side of the gully from stick left.

The route ascends the obvious varnished dihedral and is easily done in two pitches, though I believe you could do it in one with a 70 meter rope. You'll want a 70 meter rope to rappel the route.

Protection

BD Camalots 2 x #0.5 - #3, 1 x #4, 1 x #6.

Photos

Royal
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8
Some people seem to think this is Elephant Penis - now that I have climbed it I am sure it is not. May 2, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.9+
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.9+
There may be variations possible for this line. What we climbed didn't exactly match the description here or in the Handren guide, but it was quality climbing and a lot of solid 5.9 fun.

We started up the smooth flake to the right of the sandy-looking handcrack and broke the climb into 4 pitches to minimize rope drag. Oct 12, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
I got much of the information below from Joanne Urioste last spring, but didn't get around to doing the route until today.

Looking from the Pine Creek lot, the obvious blank, white, 700' high pillar on the east-facing (left) wall of Stick Gully is the eponymous organ of pachydermal procreation, also known as Pearl Buttress. This route, also known as Datura to some, starts in an alcove immediately at its left base.

1. Above an easy slab, enter a short chimney that leads up to a corner and emerges at a ledge with a bolted anchor. 60', well protected, a bit awkward and with a smidge of 5.9.

2. Third class up and left in the brushy, somewhat loose gully to a prominent pine tree that is just up and left of the start of the obvious dark crack and corner. 100' or so.

3. Follow the obvious hand crack up into the right-facing, darkly varnished corner, which leads up to a two-bolt anchor. There's one protection bolt on the left wall, but mostly you want all the hand and fist size gear you can carry. I had only one #4, which made for a character-building runout at the top; another time I'd have at least two #4 and one #5. 115' exactly. The hardest single moves on this pitch may be no harder than 5.8-5.9, but there sure are a lot of them; Joanne called it 5.10a and I'm inclined to agree.

4. We didn't do the last pitch (due to a miscommunication about bringing the big cams), but it looked great. I'd want a #6 that I could push along as far as possible in the varnished starting chimney. Nov 2, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
climbed what is in the picture, agree that it does not match up with books description. Dec 3, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.9+
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.9+
The route description in the 2nd edition of Handren's guidebook is accurate. (Description in 1st edition doesn't seem to match up to the route.)

Bring a #6 for the start of the last pitch if you are squeamish about the wide stuff. Sep 13, 2016