Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Carrington, 2015
Page Views: 949 total · 77/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Jan 15, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

I thought this was the most interesting and fun route in the cluster of 5.10 routes (most a little soft for the grade) left-center at Graveyard.

A few wonky lieback, stem, and face moves in a right-facing corner lead to a classic lieback section.

Rest up at the ledge just after halfway before tackling the gym-like headwall.
I thought the crux was at the top of the headwall near the last clip. Slightly runout but easy scrambling leads to the anchors (quicklinks and chains).

Location

This is the rightmost of the cluster of 5.10s at the top of the current social trail. This is just left of a fairly smooth face with obviously harder lines on it and just right of a short climb punctuated by a roof.

Protection

10 bolts to chains. There are two 2-bolt anchors up top - use the higher one on left with some easier and runout scrambling to get to it.

Photos

Derek Young
Denver, CO
 
Derek Young   Denver, CO
 
Protection description says, "there are two 2-bolt anchors up top - use the higher one on left with some easier and runout scrambling to get to it." Does anyone know why the other lower, green colored anchors are there? I could easily see someone wanting to just use those to prevent a longer run-out, but the lowering/rapping would be a difficult experience. Apr 8, 2018
Kirsten KDog
  5.10a/b
Kirsten KDog  
  5.10a/b
Some chossy rock at beginning & end but mostly enjoyable climbing with a cool dihedral halfway up. 2.5 stars for me.
I found getting to the last bolt on the headwall to be the crux. Felt more 10b to me, although I'm 5'2", and my taller friend I climbed with had no problems. May 7, 2018
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
The lower anchor is for the gear climb to the right: Till Death Do Us Part, 5.6. Jun 13, 2018