Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. Lawrence, D. Wolfe
Page Views: 1,173 total · 98/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Jan 24, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This route surprisingly climbs better than it initially looks. Begin the climb 30 feet right of Spinal Tap.

Please keep in mind a 70m rope will NOT reach the ground from the upper anchor. Taller folks might find this route a bit easier, 5.9-5.9+. Also note, there may still be some loose rock/dirt (I did however spend quite a few hours cleaning the route).

Pitch 1 – 5. 8 – Climb up a large boulder, and clip the somewhat high first bolt (easy 5th). Climb on moderate terrain to a small roof which leads to an excellent belay ledge, 11 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor, ~85 feet.

Pitch 2 – 5.10a – From the ledge, ascend a short overhang (crux) which leads to another, easier overhang. The second pitch anchor is located on another decent ledge, 6 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor, ~45 feet.

Rappel the route.

Protection

Draws.

Photos

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John Torkelson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
John Torkelson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
The first pitch is one of the best pitches of 5.8 I have climbed in the canyon.

The 5.9+/10a second pitch is ok and worth doing if you want to get high. Mar 17, 2018
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
FYI - bolted Jan 2018 (per Derek aka: Furthermore). Apr 1, 2018
G-Rod
Golden. CO
 
G-Rod   Golden. CO
 
A great steep first pitch leads to some fun overhangs on the second pitch. Both belay ledges are comfy, and the road noise is all but non-existent. I never felt the rock was chossy, and if you stay true to the bolt line, it's solid jugs to the top. Great warm-up for the area, too! Do this route on a weekend! Apr 3, 2018
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
With an 80m rope, slings, and some back cleaning, this was very reasonable to do as one pitch. An 80m got us back to the ground with a little rope to spare. Tie a knot, of course. Dec 26, 2018