Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Carrington, 2017
Page Views: 826 total · 68/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Jan 15, 2018 with updates from Derek Young
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Start up some jugs to clip the first bolt. Climb carefully to the very high second bolt; don't blow it or you'll deck from 20 feet up! Face climbing leads to a ledge, and once above the ledge, enjoyable, technical climbing guides you to the anchor.

Location

Per Derek Young: this shares the anchor with Reincarnation.

Protection

7 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Derek Young
Denver, CO
 
Derek Young   Denver, CO
 
Heads up! This shares anchor with left route (Reincarnation). If someone else is on it, you have to take the high road up above Ugoogoogugly.

Heads up #2! If you're a 9 climber or 10 climber, you will encounter A LOT of space and seemingly bad bolting. It would seem that the bolts were drilled where the quality of rock was best. Be thankful, because I didn't think there was much to be had on this one. Apr 1, 2018
Graham William
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Graham William   Denver, CO
  5.9+
I disagree with Derek here. The second bolt is high, but I think another bolt would be unnecessary. The climbing to the second was pretty easy, and the clipping stance is fine. Use a stick clip if you're really nervous. The rest of the route was well-protected in my opinion and very enjoyable. This is one of the best 5.9s in the canyon. 5.9+ for the pumpy, upper section. Oct 28, 2018