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Routes in The Block

Block Party, The V4-5 6B+
Block Problem, The V9- 7C
Cock Block, The V5 6C
Knock Your Block Off V6 7A
Rift, The V1 5
Under the Block V5 6C
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Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: FRA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 123 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 2, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Start low with a right hand slot undercling under the roof and the left hand on a small mini pinch/ undercling on the lip. (It is used as a foothold in "Knock Your Block Off". Once you figure out where you want your left foot, the right hand start hold doesn't do much. (Think heel-toe cam!)

Figure out how to get off the ground and make a few hard moves up on good holds. Find what beta works for you and get established on the slab(Crux). From here take your time and reach up to a jug in a crack and match. Make one more committing lock off to a jug on the lip.

Location

This problem starts under and right of "Knock Your Block Off".

There is a rock with some tree roots behind this climb.

There is an easy down climb on the far backside of the boulder.

Protection

2 pads

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Brad, do have an image of the pinch on the lip or can you clarify which you used? Oct 12, 2017
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
I don't believe I have a picture. I can take some next time I'm at Black Jack. I'm pretty sure people get a right heel hook on the hold when they do the v6. It is like 2-3 inch feature on the low lip. Oct 14, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH

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