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Routes in The Block

Block Party, The V4-5 6B+
Block Problem, The V9- 7C
Cock Block, The V5 6C
Knock Your Block Off V6 7A
Rift, The V1 5
Under the Block V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,385 total, 13/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Sit start low in a sort of ditch with a crimpy left hand and a slopey right hand, from here move up to another sloper then get in a stance and dyno for a shelf that as a decent lip, from here work up through easier holds to meet up with The Cock Block and top out there.

Location

Two feet right of The Cock Block.

Up and right of the Umbrella Boulder, a little strange to get to there is no clear defined path but if you walk a up and right path from the far right point of the Umbrella you will find it.

Protection

Pad and a good spotter.
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Oh man, I knew it was only a matter of time for that hold! Was there any hold left behind? Looks like have to work on this line again! Nov 14, 2016
Vince Schaefer
Boston, MA
Vince Schaefer   Boston, MA
Well, the Jug Argument is moot now... Came off as a large piece pretty effortlessly...Not much of a jug anymore. The Move is still great! Nov 13, 2016
Daniel Olmschenk  
  V9
I understood this problem to be an eliminate, with the pocket out left as off; but the problem is fun either way. Not sure if one way is easier; the eliminate felt solid at the book grade. Mar 12, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-
I'm not sure how it was originally done, but most people definitely use it.

To clarify further, when I did it, I started with my left hand on the block crimp/edge and my right on the sloper right next to it. Pulled off the ground and went to the higher crimp with my right hand and then moved my left hand into the incut/pocket thing and made a large deadpoint to the crimp rail with my right hand. The beta from there is kind of personal preference, though still powerful. It felt like somewhere around hard v8/soft v9 this way, though if you're a power beast you might think it is slightly easier. I found the deadpoint to be a very low percentage crux move. Jul 24, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
One thing I have always been confused about this route is if the pocket/jug is off? This hold is about 10 inches left of the starting crimp and sloper. Jun 15, 2014
JamieRe
Providence, RI
 
JamieRe   Providence, RI
 
thanks mattw i didn't see that yellow line. Apr 15, 2012
mattgiossi
warwick ri
mattgiossi   warwick ri
hahaha nice mark and thanks matt ill post it when i get back sun Apr 13, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Its not an eliminate, it climbs the path of the yellow line.

I have not heard of that variation before, I would say post the route and if anyone has info they will let you know then it can updated to be accurate Apr 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yeah, isn't that an old George Wendall route?...Just kidding. (the Wendalls were probably the earliest pioneers of Rumney climbing, in case people don't know) Apr 12, 2012
mattgiossi
warwick ri
mattgiossi   warwick ri
I had a question for any one who can answer .last weekend I did a variation of block problem from the right overhung blocks traversing into the crimpon block problem working up the slopers on the arete to the top out for block problem felt about v10 just want to know if anyone knows if this variation has been done before and if so the grade.really fun climb.thanks Apr 12, 2012
JamieRe
Providence, RI
 
JamieRe   Providence, RI
 
So. Is this problem an eliminate, There are other holds than in this description. Apr 9, 2012