Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Wolfe, Schumacher?
Page Views: 195 total · 7/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Aug 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Use the Cow Bell to complement the Snare Drum. Luckily most of the offwidth can be avoided with good stemming on the back wall. As you climb higher, the crack narrows from a squeeze chimney to fingers.

The crux is pulling around the block that guards the top of the crack. Use Shoo Fly's anchors.

Location

This is the obvious, wide crack up and left of Shoo Fly.

Protection

An overkill rack would be BD C4 #6 or #5, 4, 2, and 0.5. You could use a #5, but you will not be able to place it until your 10-15 feet up. I would have liked to have had my #6.

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