Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Tod Anderson, Rich Magill, James Donnell, Christine Damiano, Mark Felty
Page Views: 2,579 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tod Anderson on Jul 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is located at the edge of the west and south faces of The Crag Ranch where the south face reaches its lowest point. This route is LONG so TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE BEFORE YOU START. It is possible to do the whole thing in one continuous pitch from the ground, but you'll need a bucketload of draws. The part up to the first set of anchors, call it the first pitch if you like, is ten bolts and about 5.11c following granite tufas and laybacks. The next section is the business, trending right along a crystal band via underclings to a big reach & highstep (5.12c, about 12 more draws). After that spot the route stays on the front of the buttress avoiding the crack for more 5.12 face climbing on crimps, flakes and scoops, not as hard as below but still pumpy. There is a second station here, but you can't get all the way back to the ground with a 60m cord (a 70m will probably reach). It would be easy to lower from the second station to the first then pull the rope for the final lower with a 60m cord. The final bit goes up right through a roof, much easier, to the final anchor. It is also possible to traverse into the upper 2/3 of this route from the sunny ledge at the base of Granite Rodeo and Crag Rancher and you can lower from the top and reach the ledge with a 60m cord. This route has good stone, varied climbing, and lots of it, not exactly a two bolt wonder. Have fun!

Protection

28-30 bolts; there are two intermediate lowering stations. A 60m rope does NOT reach from the second station.

Photos

Better not be eating bacon for breakfast on this one. It is a masterpiece, powerful. Sep 28, 2002
The first pitch makes a superb 11b/c route on its own. HIghly recommended. We stemmed past the first couple of bolts, which may or may not have been cheating. Either way, the most fun climbing is liebacking up the steep prow. Sep 1, 2008
All protection bolts hardware on P1 upgraded 5/26/12. May 31, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Maybe climbing in the sun upset my mood, but my partner and I found the first pitch to be awkward and really a pile of crap for the first half. I can't judge the quality of the rest of the route, as I didn't climb it because I was pretty turned off and a little too warm, but the first pitch is not very worthwhile in our opinion. Sep 11, 2017