Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Felty, Tod Anderson
Page Views: 1,839 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tod Anderson on Jul 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


Located just to the right of Dusty Trail this route generally follows a low angle blunt arete. Although low angle, the arete is deceptively smooth in places. Overall, the climbing is fairly continuous at a reasonable level on very good stone. Be careful, this stretches a 60m rope! This goes to the same anchor as Dusty Trail. One minor runout at midheight can be minimized with a 3/4" cam.


10 bolts.


We needed maybe a No.2 or less after the the 4th bolt, maybe,only because it was wet. Good route. Slabby, Platte rock and good for advanced beginners. Sep 28, 2002
Advanced beginners, eh? I recall when 5.9+ was the domain of hard men. Nov 4, 2002
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
Right up there with Wrinkles in Time as one of the best 5.9 sport climbs anywhere. Especially for advanced beginners such as myself. May 27, 2003
Probably the best bolted 5.9 I've done, and a good deal harder than bolted 5.9 routes you would find in Clear Creek or Boulder Canyon.

Awesome position, with Pike's Peak in the background and mostly unburnt forest stretching to the horizon. Jun 2, 2003
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
Good warmup. I don't recall a runout section. The harder parts were well-bolted. May 14, 2007
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Quality stone, nice and long, great movement, what more could you want? Small hand holds and an absence of footers at the crux will get your attention for sure. Agree with Darin & Richard, one of the better .9 sport routes around. Jul 31, 2016
Castle Rock, CO
Preston   Castle Rock, CO
I agree with the above comments. This is one of the better single pitch 9+ SPORT climbs I have climbed in Colorado however its not quite as good as Lunch Money (9+) in Clear Creek Canyon......The crux is a height-dependent move that for me at 5'7" requires a bold stretch to a decent hold on an arete with no feet. The rest of the climb is full of good continuous movement. I didn't find it necessary to use any gear. May 20, 2018