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Routes in The Crag Ranch

Back Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back at the Ranch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Butterfly Effect T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Candy Ass 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cow Bell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crag Rancher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Cove Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dusty Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fenceline S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Field of Opportunity S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Granite Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Greenhorn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grub Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Plains Poser S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Mittens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life On The Ranch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meanwhile S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North 40 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plain High Poser S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Property Boundary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quickdraw Rustler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sheep Buggerer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shoo Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snare Drum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Throwin' the Shit Fit S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Magill and Anderson
Page Views: 182 total, 1/month
Shared By: richard magill on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

One of the best new routes at Devil's Head - an absolutely great line on impeccable stone.

Granite Rodeo starts out with nice 10+/11- moves until you reach the crux at about 40 feet. Here, the route steepens and the holds all turn upside down! Work your way up three powerful underclings and through the 12b crux. The climbing softens to 11- for awhile until you are forced out onto a giant rounded pillar on edges and knobs.The climbing gets steadily more difficult, culminating with some 11+ moves just under the anchors. After burling through the crux down low, this section has seen many a desperate pumped climber fighting to hang on.

Granite Rodeo is in the center of the Crag Ranch, just right of Meanwhile (see the description of Meanwhile to find it). Granite Rodeo starts from the big ledge which can be reached from Meanwhile's first pitch. Alternately, there is a bolted 5.6 access pitch (6 bolts) to the south. It is probably easiest to get here by walking up into the alcove and looking back at the big red tower - this is your destination. Then look down and you will see the access pitch.

Protection

18 bolts (?)

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Was the intended line to stay on the face at the top and avoid the easier crack out left? Fun route with a powerful crux sequence. Looooong pitch. May 29, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Does the creativity never cease? Come up to the Ranch. Climb. Perfect weather most of time. Perfect setting. Killer concept. Killer route (spanker as well...). The hump down just about finalized the *!#*$#*!-bum hip, but it was worth the pain. Punching out through the I70 Corridor, I keep looking for more rock as good as The Head, but not much equals the concentration of three star routes to be had at The Head. Jul 5, 2003