Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Magill and Anderson
Page Views: 472 total · 2/month
Shared By: richard magill on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

One of the best new routes at Devil's Head - an absolutely great line on impeccable stone.

Granite Rodeo starts out with nice 10+/11- moves until you reach the crux at about 40 feet. Here, the route steepens and the holds all turn upside down! Work your way up three powerful underclings and through the 12b crux. The climbing softens to 11- for awhile until you are forced out onto a giant rounded pillar on edges and knobs.The climbing gets steadily more difficult, culminating with some 11+ moves just under the anchors. After burling through the crux down low, this section has seen many a desperate pumped climber fighting to hang on.

Granite Rodeo is in the center of the Crag Ranch, just right of Meanwhile (see the description of Meanwhile to find it). Granite Rodeo starts from the big ledge which can be reached from Meanwhile's first pitch. Alternately, there is a bolted 5.6 access pitch (6 bolts) to the south. It is probably easiest to get here by walking up into the alcove and looking back at the big red tower - this is your destination. Then look down and you will see the access pitch.

Protection

18 bolts (?)

Photos