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Routes in The Crag Ranch

Back Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back at the Ranch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Butterfly Effect T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Candy Ass 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cow Bell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crag Rancher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Cove Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dusty Trail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fenceline S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Field of Opportunity S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Granite Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Greenhorn S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grub Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Plains Poser S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holey Mittens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Life On The Ranch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meanwhile S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
North 40 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Plain High Poser S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Property Boundary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quickdraw Rustler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sheep Buggerer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shoo Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snare Drum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Throwin' the Shit Fit S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 70 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tod Anderson on May 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the furthest left route on the Crag Ranch, starting from the Sun Deck Ledge. A short powerful route leads through overhangs to an anchor at the end of "the good stone", where the rock changes to that found more frequently throughout the South Platte.

This is the first route in the new Devil's Head Guidebook that is now available in about a dozen shops and gyms in Colorado Springs and Denver.

Protection

6 bolts + anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
A really weird route. It would have been better to arrange it such that the protection followed the natural climbing (11a or so). The bolts are way, way out to the right, so you end up climbing up to the left, then trying to climb back to the right to clip, etc. The last bolt is really hard to clip. There are several spots on the route where the location of the bolts versus natural climbing results in the rope running over sharp edges, etc.

Also, several of the bolts are located such that the biners get mangled over edges/knobs/etc., and it tries to open the gates. I used a couple granny draws to mitigate this.

The anchors are way to the right, so it isn't really possible to lower and retrieve draws. You have to TR it. I found the rope versus edge problems even worse on TR.

The 2 12a's to the right are fun, but I would skip this one. I would give this one a bomb, but if it was retro'd, it could be a good route. Jun 24, 2013