Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick
Page Views: 981 total · 4/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.

The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.

Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.

A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!

Protection

18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.

Photos