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Routes in 3. Madigan Area

Brown School T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
DLM Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forist Grump T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Birthday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Madigan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nibroc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stone Dust Torture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 79 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Two stars as a top rope after leading to the shared anchors on Nibroc. When/if top roping from the Nibroc anchor, a directional cam in the flake is helpful.

Just a few feet right of Nibroc there's a bolt, about 18-20 ft up, but difficult to see unless you walk 8-10 ft right and look back on it.

P1 - Climb the brown "stairstep" ledges to the bolt, continue up (crux PG-13/R near-to-ground-fall) to the right-facing flake, then up tending slightly left to the Nibroc/Brown School anchor.

Brad White from IME submits P2 and info on the FA:
P2 - Climb straight up past the first bolt just before a thin flake (small cams or nuts). Continue up past flake slanting right past 3 more bolts below a right slanting overlap to a two bolt rap anchor at its end.

Brown School is an old route with no idea who put it up. Maybe Ed B. or Rob Adair a decade ago?

Location

About 5 ft right of Nibroc

Protection

mid-sized cams

Photos

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